"Harry K" wrote in message
om...
"HeatMan" wrote in message
link.net...

I'm curious. Just how do you know that no local codes don't do that?


Our local codes, you moron.

Ah, that is clear as mud. Because -your- codes don't that means -no
codes do-? I can see it now as my local inspector downchecks my work.
"but heatman's code doesn't require that". Your logic has a BIG hole
in it.

You are an inbred moron, aren't you? It's not MY code, it's the code for my
municipality....

Second, and more important(!), the question was who told the OP to
run a
leaking pipe to a floor drain. If the relief is leaking, there is a
problem
and running it to a floor drain will simply hide the problem. You
need
to
learn how to read.

What got your panties in a bunch? I posted a comment to others
pointing out that just pointing a TPR overflow to the floor (or
elsewhere) is not a good practice. If you think I mean to connect it
to the drain, I don't. You must ahve an air gap and a blowing pipe
into a drain will be notice enough. You seem to think that suddenly
discovering water everywhere on the floor is a 'good thing'. As to
reading, I do just fine, you don't do so well in the logic department
tho.


Brother, you ain't got a clue, do you? 'Pointing' the releif towards
the
floor is better than not piping it down at all.


And that comment is supposed to mean something in response to what I
posted?? Logic man, logic. Of course it is better but it is not the
-best- solution.

YOU talk about logic? 99.9% of the people who know anything about this
understood what i was saying. I don't care if you do.


Oh, and yes, the relief valves do pop and run continuously. If it's
in
an
older house with a 1.25 inch or a 1.5 inch floor drain (and it does
happen,
I'm sitting about 14 feet from a 1.5 inch floor drain), don't you
think
65-120 psi will overpower the draining capacity of such a small
drain?


Again your seem to think that a flooded floor is a 'good thing'. Yes
it can overwhelm the drain so just let it blow eh??


No, I don't think a flooded floor is a good thing. What gave you that
idea?

Well your first -personal attack (for no reason)- on me was to the
effect that leading it to a drain was bad business. Gee, maybe that
gave me the idea that you don't approve of it.

I am licensed by the state I live in. Are you(except for your license to be
a moron, not to be confused with the Stormin Moron)? This has not been a
personal attack, unless you are thin skinned enough to beleive it is..


While I'm at it, have you ever seen the pipe off a relief valve
drain
upwards? I see them almost daily...... New codes require there to
be
some
way to drain the water off the seat of the valve.

So all -local- codes require that now??. Just how does pointing the
pipe -up- drain the valve seat and just where is all that water
spraying to??

A lot of the older homes had the releif piped outside. Now, Joe
Homeowner
or a hack 'plumber' comes in and reconnects the existing pipe the the
new
releif. That's when the drain from the releif comes in. That's what
keeps
the water off the seat of the releif.

Try answering the question instead of going off into the bushes.
Again, pointing the pipe -up- drains the valve seat just how? I have
never seen a pipe pointing up that drains anything unless it is by
siphon. Why do I think that you have read something into the code
that isn't there?

There is a couple of fitting available, one is called a 'tee.' You pipe the
releif into the tee and provide a way for the water to drain off, usually a
3/8" sink valve. This will allow the water to drain off the seat (providing
it was installed at a slight downward pitch) with out spraying high pressure
hot water all over a person that stands near the valve. Nibco makes an
elbow that has a drain on it. To me, that looks a lot neater and I will
take the rubber gasket out that seals it. That means there is no way the HO
can seal the pipe off and let water sit on the seat. (of course, I don't do
this if the water tank is in an area that can be damaged by water on the
floor. I also explain all functions the the HO before I submit the bill and
answer any questions.)


Here is another question. Do you agree that the TPR valve should be
piped to a drain (using an air gap of course)???

If there is an adequate drain nearby, yes. For those still following this
thread, Harry is refering to an air gap not as a special fitting, but an
actual space between the end of the releif and the drain opening. That way
you can see the water coming out the releif and know you have a problem.

If you have noticed, I have always referred to the fittings as a relief or
relief valve instead of a 'TPR.' Do you know why that is?