does the tank have a pressure gauge? is it reading normally?
perhaps the pressure switch is faulty.
Considering your hassle, I'd go out and buy an Extrol, though I do
like your kind of tank because they are normally so hassle=free. OR
you can wait for a sharpie to diagnose this. Something is being
missed.





On Sun, 02 May 2004 22:25:55 -0500, wrote:


You are correct. This tank is bladderless, all those older galvanized
tanks were. It's old, but it dont leak. I have often wondered if it
waterlogs because it is lower than the pipe from the well. The well
is about 8 feet away from the pit, but the pipe coming from the well
is 6 of 7 feet deep. This pit is 15 feet deep. It used to be an old
cistern. I have even thought about building a platform out of treated
wood to raise the tank above the pipe level, but that's a lot of work
to build something down there, since it's hard to get into. I'd only
do it if I knew for sure it would be beneficial to go thru the trouble
and expense.

Someone mentioned adding air. There is no (tire type valve stem).
However, there are several pipe plugs on the tank (if they come out).
Where should the air go in? The top of the tank, or the bottom, or
dont it matter? It would be easiest to install one on the piping, but
the pipes enter the tank about 8" from the bottom. However, with this
being a bladderless tank, is adding air still necessary?
I thought only the bladder type tanks needed air pumped in, but maybe
that is my problem and I need to add some.

I also know what is meant by the air valve. I believe they are called
air volume controls (AVC). I know about them because I used to live
at another farm, but that place had a shallow well, and jet pump in
the basement. That had a AVC, which had a small tube that went to the
pump. But I now have a submersible pump in a deep well. There is no
way to connect one of these to the pump (that I know of).

Thanks

Rick



On Sun, 02 May 2004 23:58:42 GMT, frank1492
wrote:

Maybe I'm off-base here, but isn't it likely that the old
galvanized tank he describes is bladderless and relying
on sheer size to produce effect? If so, I don't know how
such a tank could get "waterlogged." I've had one for
40 years and never experienced that. Weird.






On Sun, 02 May 2004 14:41:12 -0500, wrote:

I am on a farm and I have the old galvanized pressure tank. It's in a
pit to keep it from freezing (not the well, just the tank). The well
has a submersible pump. I dont know what the gallon rating is of this
tank, but it's about 5 feet tall and 18 inches diameter. Compared to
a water heater, I'd guess it's about a 40 gallon tank.

Anyhow, this tank constantly gets waterlogged, and then the pump kicks
on an off continually when I use water. I have to fight my way into
the pit (not easy), and drain the tank. Then everything is ok for
awhile again.

Since this type of tank has been used for ages, was this just
something that everyone had to do regularly (to drain it)?
I have been looking into a way to connect a long rod to the drain
valve so I can open it without going into the pit. (the pit is 15
feet deep). Does anyone know of a valve that has a way to hook a
shaft onto it?

My other question. I checked into one of those Well-X-Trol bladder
type tanks (blue tank). I was going to install one of them to
eliminate this problem, but found out that those tanks only have ONE
pipe on the bottom. My galvanized tank has TWO inlets/outlets. In
other words, the pump goes into one side of the tank (inlet), and the
water to the buildings comes out the other side of the tank (outlet).
I dont see how they can work with only one pipe, unless both the inlet
and outlet can be TEE'd together.

Any advice?

Thanks

Rick