"David Efflandt" wrote in message
.. .
wrote:

I am on a farm and I have the old galvanized pressure tank. It's in a
pit to keep it from freezing (not the well, just the tank). The well
has a submersible pump. I dont know what the gallon rating is of this
tank, but it's about 5 feet tall and 18 inches diameter. Compared to
a water heater, I'd guess it's about a 40 gallon tank.

Anyhow, this tank constantly gets waterlogged, and then the pump kicks
on an off continually when I use water. I have to fight my way into
the pit (not easy), and drain the tank. Then everything is ok for
awhile again.

Since you to not mention pressurizing the tank, I wonder if you are
neglecting to do that. Once it is empty, attach an air compressor and
initially pump it up with air to 5 psi lower than pump-on pressure
setting.
Avoid using water during power failure to avoid losing the air charge.

If you simply drain the tank and do not charge it with air, the water
compresses the air to almost nothing, and you are only utilizing a small
fraction of the tank's capacity.

Since this type of tank has been used for ages, was this just
something that everyone had to do regularly (to drain it)?
I have been looking into a way to connect a long rod to the drain
valve so I can open it without going into the pit. (the pit is 15
feet deep). Does anyone know of a valve that has a way to hook a
shaft onto it?

Either permanently connect an air compressor that you can run periodically
(with check valve to keep from getting water in it), or run an air line
topside with a Schroeder valve so you can connect an air supply from
outside. You get the best operation if the tank is approximately 2/3rds
air and 1/3rd water. Some people are under the misconception that more
water is better, but not if there is no pocket of air pressure to push it
out. If there is no sight glass, you may be able to see condensation
where
the cold water is.

My other question. I checked into one of those Well-X-Trol bladder
type tanks (blue tank). I was going to install one of them to
eliminate this problem, but found out that those tanks only have ONE
pipe on the bottom. My galvanized tank has TWO inlets/outlets. In
other words, the pump goes into one side of the tank (inlet), and the
water to the buildings comes out the other side of the tank (outlet).
I dont see how they can work with only one pipe, unless both the inlet
and outlet can be TEE'd together.

You really need only a tee with single pipe to the pressure tank. When
the
pump is off, you draw out of the tank. When the pump is on, any surplus
above what you are using goes into the pressure tank.

--
David Efflandt http://www.de-srv.com/

Domestic pumps here seem to have a 'snifter valve' which AUI sucks in a
little bit of air everytime the system runs to replenish/keep the amount of
air in the pressure tank at a suitable level, the ones I've seen look like
Schrader style tyre valve mounted somewhere on the pump. Yours have one or
is it corroded/defective? Despite that I have 'occasionally' maybe after a
few months, had to drain down our system when it got 'waterlogged'.
Suggestion anyway. Terry.