On 14/02/2020 15:15, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
GB wrote:
On 14/02/2020 11:17, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
GB wrote:
if it's cement based soking in HCl works eventually




Is that brick acid?

Be interesting to see what it does to tiles. HCl is stored in glass, and
the glaze on tiles is effectively glass, so that sounds promising. But
any defects in the glaze could let the acid attack the colour
underneath, and of course the baked clay is porous.

I was wondering if that was the answer. The tiles are extremely strong -
can be used on a floor. So I'd guess porcelain. The adhesive is definitely
a waterproof mortar based one.


I still think you may be over-worrying about the need to reclaim these
tiles.

It would depend on the thickness of the new worktops. At the moment the
existing tiles start with full ones where the current worktop meets the
wall. If it is the same thickness fine. If thinner, I may have to add
some. If thicker, easy to remove the bottom row of tiles and trim them -
as they're held to the wall with ordinary tile adhesive.

My suggestion is to put a small upstand at the back of the new Corian
worktop (or whatever you decide to get). Then butt that up against the
face of the tiles. It looks very effective, and it provides a 100%
waterproof joint.

Generally, modern worktops tend to be 38mm. You can get thinner, but
they don't look as good. The current blockboard + tiles worktop is
surely quite a bit thinner? More like 25mm, perhaps? Hence, to save a
hell of a lot of messing about, I suggest that the new worktop is butted
up against the face of the tiles.


But I expect I'll have to make good round the new cooker hood. The old is
mounted directly to the wall and tiled round.


You said you had a few spare tiles?