Hmm, I hadn't considered standing water as a problem. I've heard that
moisture barriers are designed to prevent the occassional rise -- and
then fall -- of water, such as with a heavy rain. But you're talking
about the moisture from drying concrete/leveler, right? How soon can
you paint on the sealer? I've heard the times are 6-24hrs for foot
traffic and 24hrs to up to 7 days for vehicle traffic. Though of
course, there's the added problem is this being an interior surface....

Thanks!
-david

MLD wrote:
I'd like to discuss the topic of using a vapor barrier. I've gone two ways
on a poured cement floor. One was actually laying down a plastic sheet on
the floor and then putting down furring strips followed by the plywood. The
other, in another room, was to paint a floor sealer on the cement and then
the furring strips etc.. The results indicate that the sealer was the
better of the two--The floor breathes letting the moisture up through the
cement. The plastic sheet trapped the moisture and as a result water formed
between the floor and the plastic. I had a poured floor prior to that at
one time and it was so good at trapping the moisture that parts of the floor
bubbled up. Punctured the bubbles and water squirted out. I put a nail in a
drill and just broke the surface all over the floor to solve that problem.
Right now there is ceramic tile on the floor and no problems (floor leveler
was used)
MLD
"RB" wrote in message
...

I've leveled concrete floors using Quickrete's self leveling product.
It works well but as was pointed out it is a bit pricey. Estimate the
volume you'll need. If you're ok with the cost it's not a hard job.
Mix 25 to 50 lbs at a time, I use a 1/2" drill driving a mixing paddle
and pour it on. It will help to have one person mixing and another
spreading and working the surface.

Make provisions to put a form at each floor level entrance or exit.
Having self leveling concrete running out of a door can be a bit

stressful.

My observation is that this product will not be as hard as the concrete
you'll be covering though. Be sure to install a good vapor barrier
before installing your flooring.

RB

D K Woods wrote:

We're purchasing a new home and looking into putting new flooring in. I
plan to use a finished room in the basement as an office, and want to
put in a 'hardwood' laminate floor. The problem is, the concrete in the
basement in *extremely* uneven. I don't know a specific depth since I
haven't pulled up the carpet that's current covering it, but I would
guess some of the worst parts vary by maybe 1" over a 2' area.
Positively wavy.

I've seen that Quikrete has a self-leveling floor resurfacer, but I
don't know if it will work to that magnitude (possibly with several
stages?). I also haven't found any indication as to how much might be
needed for a given area -- or where to get it, or how costly it is. What
kind of equipment is needed for this job? I've read that a power mixer,
or a mixer tool on a power drill, is needed, as well as some tubs and
cleaning agents. But I've also seen pictures of people using some kind
of tubing/hose to pour the mixture. Is this necessary? Fortunately, the
quikrete stuff allegedly does not need any trowling.

How difficult would a resurfacing project like this be? I'm new to
flooring AND to concrete.

And finally, will the fact that this is an interior surface alter the
estimated drying times? The room can be vented through a door into the
garage. What about fumes?

Much appreciated!
-david