On 19/01/2020 14:53:29, John Rumm wrote:
On 18/01/2020 01:36, Fredxx wrote:
On 17/01/2020 16:21:57, Andrew wrote:
On 17/01/2020 16:15, Fredxx wrote:
In the good old days I would have used junction boxes but now these
have to be 'accessible' I ought to use an alternative.

I have tried crimps in the past and been thoroughly disillusioned
with them. I have found them unreliable and easily pulled apart,
even with ratchet crimping pliers.

Is there an alternative convenient and affordable method recommended
where access is not required.

Correctly made crimp joints with a decent ratchet crimper should
not pull apart. Something else is wrong with your technique or
equiopment.

I feel this may well be the case. I've used Silverline and other
crimpers where I've been able to pull the cable out of the connector.

In Oz I believe they solder all joints and use heat shrinkable
sleeving.Â* Can anyone confirm this ?.

Wago connectors and similar seem to be the favourite way these
days.

These seem fine for 20A or less but I'm not sure if there are an
series that can be used for a 32A ring.

Remember that the minimum installed cable capacity[1] required for a
ring is only 20A


[1] i.e. once all de-rating factors are taken into account. So for
example 2.5mm^2 T&E has a "clipped direct" capacity of 27A, but that
reduces depending on how its actually installed. So enclosed in an
insulated stud wall but in contact with one of the plasterboard surfaces
for example would reduce its capacity to 21A. In a conduit in a
insulated wall, reduces it to 20A.

See reference method 102 in the table he

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Cables#Cable_Sizes

Thanks, I was aware of method 102 and believed it is OK for a 32A ring.
And that 103 should use 4+mm^2 cable for a section in insulation.
Something I would go out of my way to avoid.

I don't have my 17th edition book at hand but wasn't certain of the
rating for any leg in a ring main. I didn't know if it had changed for
the 18th Ed.

Thanks again.