On 10/01/2020 01:39, wrote:
On Thursday, 9 January 2020 20:42:33 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 09/01/2020 18:00, tabbypurr wrote:
On Thursday, 9 January 2020 09:55:23 UTC, Muddymike wrote:
On 08/01/2020 19:53, tabbypurr wrote:
On Tuesday, 7 January 2020 03:04:01 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 06/01/2020 23:22, tabbypurr wrote:

Plan is to fit timber bars under open stair steps to
reduce the gaps to meet BR. They'll be positioned in the
middle of the space up-down-wise. But I'm not seeing how
they can be fixed. The right side is easy, a slim nail
through the string into the end of the bar. But the left
outer side of the stair is inaccessible, so not clear how
one could fix them there. Yes it's easy to do so it looks
bad, eg with little L brackets, but how to do it neatly?
The problem with using a dowel is that the bar has to
slide into place without being angled, so it would not be
possible to get a dowel into position. 2

I'm late into this so apology if this has already been
suggested.

You need something like this, Ive use mine to good effect.

Silverline Pocket Hole Screw Jig c/w Dowel Drill Sets Screw
Joint Hole Tools | eBay https://ebay.us/k3T2tJ

Mike

I can't think why I'd need that, and isn't the angle too
shallow?

No, its just right :-)

A bit of card will make a template for marking where to drill so
they're all the same. Plan to drill at nearer 45 degrees.

The point of a pocket hole jig is it makes strong joints quickly
and repeatedly. While it all also make them consistent such that
they line up, that is not the main selling point.

The pocket hole has a flat bottom, which when used with the
correct pocket hole screws[1], will give a much stronger joint that
will not tend to split the end of the wood in the same way that
driving a normal wood screw at an angle will.

Ideally you need one with a proper profiled pocket hole drill bit
with the shoulder on it:

https://ebay.us/hmjePW


[1] e.g. with pan/wafer head, not countersunk:

https://ebay.us/OXSnHZ

I realise the shoulder with raised head is a plus for strength, but
the shallow angle is a minus. It would either leave a thin bit of
wood one side of the screw or the screw would be huge to get anywhere
near the centre for better strength. A countersunk hole plus not
overtightening does the job well enough.

The angle is such that when you place a pocket hole on the end of a 19mm
bit of wood/ply the screw will emerge from the end approximately in the
middle of the thickness, and the part of the screw that penetrates the
adjacent panel, will remain within the footprint of the end of the
timber with the pocket hole.

--
Cheers,

John.

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