On 21 Apr 2004 21:17:15 GMT, (POPPYPLANK) wrote:

Thanks for the clarifications, Vic.

Your best and easiest path to success is get a group of Torch Blades
(trademark
of Milwaukee) and a Sawzall.

Do you recommend against a snap cutter?

That depends on the condition of the cast iron you are cutting. I know the
combo of Sawzall and Torch Blades will work in every instance. If you try to
use a snap cutter and it crushes the old pipe you are in a world of bad
things...took me about 12 hours one time when I crushed the cast the snap
cutter and I know how to use the snap cutter.

The CI appears to be in excellent shape, the house was built in 1949.
Of course, that applies only to the pipe's exterior, I have no idea
what's happening on the inside.

What do you consider sufficient support? Do you build a, say, 2x4
framework that supports a riser clamp (clamped to the CI riser) from
the floor?

It seems that you have the weight supported...just kinda rig something so you
get no left-right or front-back movement of the existing stack (which I am
assuming is a vertical stack)

Ok. Yes, the stack is vertical.

I'm thinking the correct Wye is a "waste T". The leg that will receive
the PVC opens perpendicular to the legs that will receive the cast
iron, but a downward sweep is molded into the this perpendicular leg.
Are we thinking of the same fitting?

Negative. You are referring to a Sanitary Tee...bad idea...get a wye where the
branch is at a 45 degree angle to the run of the pipe. Much better flow for
solids and paper and whatever else gets put in the toilet.

Ok. Glad to hear that as it verifies my intuition. For some reason,
books on the subject I've seen give the impression that a Sanitary Tee
is the preferred fitting and I've wondered why a 45 wouldn't be
better.

A Fernco is a Rubber Sleeve that will fit over your cast iron (take note of
whether on not your cast iron is XH or not).

I don't know how to distinguish XH from whatever else (SV?) there is.

Look on the Hubs of the pipe and fittings if it has an XH cast into the hub it
is XH ..depending on the age it may or may not have SV ( Service Weight) cast
on the hubs.

Ok. I was looking at the Fernco couplings at Home Cheapo and they
seem to specify use is ok through a range of weights including both XH
and SV, so it appears not to be an issue anyway.

Now we have to line up the Wye with your new stack ...since I am not there I
cannot advise you step by step...but you will need a 3" PVC Street 45 to
plumb
the outlet of the Wye.

I'm not sure I understand what you're telling me, here. Are you saying
that I should temporarily install the Street 45 into the Wye outlet so
that I can get a fix on how plumb the assembly is, and adjust
accordingly? If this's right, I should probably stick a 2' or so
length of PVC into the other end of the 45 to put a level up against.

I Knew this was gonna be a problem...see above about use of Wye vs. San Tee.

We're on the same page because I had a Wye in mind anyway (I cleverly
forgot about the Sanitary T when thinking about your level/plumb
instruction).

The street 45 will bring your connection from a 45 offset to a vertical riser
again...since I dont know where your new PVC riser is in relation to existing
cast iron riser...I just wanted to make sure that the new wye with street 45
installed was plumb and level.

Ok, I understand.

Heres a trick get a torpedo level and lay it the wrong way across the top of
the street 45 and when all three bubbles are in the lines the fitting is level
and plumb in most of the 3 dimensions...just make sure you are on the flat of
the torpedo level.

That's an interesting tip!

Once you have the new stack plumb*; it is time to tighten the bottom band.
Now we very slowly allow the upper fernco to accept the weight of your
existing soil stack.

I'm not clear how that's done. You seem to be implying that the
support that's initially erected for the CI riser is constructed such
that it can be gradually diminished, allowing the riser to actually
move down about 1/4". How do you usually accomplish this?

Nah...the 1/4" is just a fudge factor..just allow the existing cast iron stack
just to lower slowly...if you have riser clamps just loosen the bolts evenly
(side by each) and when you feel the tension on the bolts start to relax...just
wait a minute or two and loosen just a bit and wait and repeat process. ( this
is a great time to have a malt beverage refreshment)

Ok. Nothing elaborate, just a little time and patience.

Al:
My email is you can take some digital pictures of
exactly what you are doing ...I can offer more consice advice.

Thanks, Vic, you're more than generous with your time and knowledge.
I'm confident I now have the necessary information and related
understanding to proceed.

Sorry bout the delay in replying ..I became a grandpoppy twice yesterday....

Congratulations, grandpa!

do you want to hear about my grandbabies?

Sure, shoot.

My email is:

Thanks again, Vic, I'll let you know how things work out.

Al