Redesign your form. Make the wood in short enough sections to get
it out of the welded cross members ( I assume these are only
occasional, the rest being filled in with removable grates). When
the wood is removed, you will need the concrete to support the
bearing bars.

The grates need to be removable for clearing leaves and dirt. You
can form the sides with ply, attach a 2x2 or other to create
ledgers on both sides of the trough to carry the grates.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing. . . .
DanG


"Hamilton Audio" wrote in message
news:YSChc.201477$oR5.152977@pd7tw3no...
am about to embark on my first cement project. want to rebuild
the trough
drain in front of my garage door (which strangely turned from
hard white
concrete to beach sand over the winter). I'm told to use a
piece of
"buffalo board" between the garage pad and my new cement to
allow the two to
move. is this just standard 1/8" hardboard, or something
unique? makes
sense to use, but not sure on the material.

also, how would you guys say to treat the 1x6's I'm going to use
for the
form to make them last as long as possible in a wet environment?
I've got a
set of heavy steel rails welded together to reinforce the
"bridge" over the
trough and will be unable to remove the form once the cement has
cured. as
the rails have large tangs to secure them into the cement (and
the rails
will be on top of the form).

i thought about using a tar roofing product to completely coat
and seal the
form before I set it in place to pour. assume this will keep
water off the
wood and allow the wood to last a lot longer. if the wood
deteriorates
quickly, I guess its no big deal....just don't wanna deal with a
mess later
if I don't have to.

ideas?

b