On Fri, 03 Jan 2020 23:13:17 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Fri, 03 Jan 2020 22:45:16 -0500, wrote:

On Fri, 03 Jan 2020 20:49:31 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

2On Fri, 03 Jan 2020 18:35:23 -0500, wrote:

On Fri, 03 Jan 2020 17:19:23 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Fri, 03 Jan 2020 13:15:15 -0500, wrote:

On Fri, 3 Jan 2020 06:13:45 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Friday, January 3, 2020 at 1:37:55 AM UTC-5, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Thu, 2 Jan 2020 17:33:47 -0500, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


"Clare Snyder"
GENERALLY the "hiccup" will reset the light and go out of
limp mode
itself if it is not redetected in a number of restarts. If
you do
disconnect the battery short the disconnected ground cable
to the
positive to short and drain any charge from the computer.
The VEHICLE
end of the ground cable to the positive cable - NOT the
battery
end!!!!!!!

Please re-read this, Clare, and clarify this.
It sounds 'fishy' to me... phil

He said it right. He's discharging the car, not the battery.

Without the battery connected, the car won't have much charge but it can
have enough to hold settings, and the goal was to reset the
transmission.

No, he did not say it right:


If
you do
disconnect the battery short the disconnected ground cable
to the
positive to short and drain any charge from the computer.
The VEHICLE
end of the ground cable to the positive cable - NOT the
battery
end!!!!!!!


What does "the vehicle end of the ground cable, not the battery end"
mean? First, you would not disconnect the vehicle end of the ground
cable to begin with. It's connected to the chassis and usually not
even readily accessible. You would disconnect the BATTERY END. And then
touch that to the positive battery post, with the positive cable
still connected. And if you did disconnect the vehicle end of the
ground cable, not the battery end, and shorted that to the positive
battery terminal l like he sadi, you would have a direct short across
the battery, fireworks and possible explosion.


This was all just confusion about a poorly worded sentence and mostly
unnecessary in the first place. The capacitors in these ECUs won't
carry that load for more than a second or two anyway. If you
disconnect that battery for 10 seconds, everything that was going to
reset will reset. These days I suspect a lot of those settings are in
Flash and that isn't going to reset until you reset it.
As for the transmission in a 2000 Honda. It was reset in a couple of
seconds every time I did it. I am guessing a Toyota would be the same.
On most of the newer vehicles it IS in flash (NVRAM) and will not
reset by simply disconnecting the battery. Basically on any that can
be "reflashed" with new microcode. I don't think year 2000 vehicles
had that capability (better than 90% sure, but not CERTAIN.)

Some vehicles in that time period DID have "persistent" memory - with
basically a supercapacitor to hold memory when the battery had to be
replaced or disconnected for service - to avoid the ECM losing all
it's adaptive settings, and the radio losing all it's presets, and the
memory seats and pedals etc from losing all their settings.

My 97 Honda doesn't remember **** after the most brief disconnect.
When I still had the factory radio that was a real pain in the ass
because there was a secret code you needed to enter to get it going
again. I chucked it and put in an MP3 player pretty fast. I am not
sure who would want to steal that radio in the first place. It sure
wasn't easy to get out (pre DIN) and there was nothing special about
it. It didn't really matter tho since I was already playing MP3s in
the car when I bought the car and I was only using the AMP, via a
cassette adapter, from a PC in back.


'97 was the first, or possibly second depending on the model, Honda
with full OBD2 compatability. Mode 6 became standard in 1998. Things
changed very little for the next 5-8 years, and then "all hell broke
loose" with Mandatory CanBus in 2008 (actually 2001 for European cars)
and EOBD and OBD3 ----- and LOTS of fun.

I have never had a need to plug anything into the OBD port on that
Honda. The only thing that really "failed" was the hydraulic cylinders
for the clutch, a leaking radiator and the door handles. I did replace
the oil filter housing but that was just to stop a drip in the
driveway. The belt job was preventive maintenance like the tires.
In just under 8 years my '96 Ranger has thrown two codes. A leaky
evap hose and a bad temperature sensor - both of which I would not
have caught without the CEL coming on (and the last one WAS hurting
gas mileage before it got to the point it stopped in the middle of the
road just as the CEL came on - - -

It is what I said before. Generally speaking, the electronics are
making cars easier to fix. They usually tell you where they hurt. I am
sure if you do it long enough you have plenty of stories of things
that should have been caught and weren't but it is not the olden days
where you just had to guess what to fix and it was all shades of gray.