On Friday, January 3, 2020 at 1:15:48 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Fri, 3 Jan 2020 06:13:45 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Friday, January 3, 2020 at 1:37:55 AM UTC-5, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Thu, 2 Jan 2020 17:33:47 -0500, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


"Clare Snyder"
GENERALLY the "hiccup" will reset the light and go out of
limp mode
itself if it is not redetected in a number of restarts. If
you do
disconnect the battery short the disconnected ground cable
to the
positive to short and drain any charge from the computer.
The VEHICLE
end of the ground cable to the positive cable - NOT the
battery
end!!!!!!!

Please re-read this, Clare, and clarify this.
It sounds 'fishy' to me... phil

He said it right. He's discharging the car, not the battery.

Without the battery connected, the car won't have much charge but it can
have enough to hold settings, and the goal was to reset the
transmission.

No, he did not say it right:


If
you do
disconnect the battery short the disconnected ground cable
to the
positive to short and drain any charge from the computer.
The VEHICLE
end of the ground cable to the positive cable - NOT the
battery
end!!!!!!!


What does "the vehicle end of the ground cable, not the battery end"
mean? First, you would not disconnect the vehicle end of the ground
cable to begin with. It's connected to the chassis and usually not
even readily accessible. You would disconnect the BATTERY END. And then
touch that to the positive battery post, with the positive cable
still connected. And if you did disconnect the vehicle end of the
ground cable, not the battery end, and shorted that to the positive
battery terminal l like he sadi, you would have a direct short across
the battery, fireworks and possible explosion.


This was all just confusion about a poorly worded sentence and mostly
unnecessary in the first place. The capacitors in these ECUs won't
carry that load for more than a second or two anyway. If you
disconnect that battery for 10 seconds, everything that was going to
reset will reset. These days I suspect a lot of those settings are in
Flash and that isn't going to reset until you reset it.

+1


As for the transmission in a 2000 Honda. It was reset in a couple of
seconds every time I did it. I am guessing a Toyota would be the same.

That's been my experience with codes that i've reset in various modules,
including tranny too.

Like others have said, the car needs to go to a dealer or competent
repair shop. If they read a code, then they should be able to tell the
customer what that code typically means is wrong. It could be anything
from a bad connection to a tranny that's kaput. If it's the latter
and you're a shyster, I guess you could sign up for one of those great
auto warranty company plans, drive around in limp mode for a couple
months, then take it for repair.