On 21/12/19 12:23, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 21 Dec 2019 09:21:16 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

On 20/12/19 22:25, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 20 Dec 2019 14:39:41 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

The light in the laundry room stops working after worker had worked on
the ceiling in the next room.

There are two wires coming in to the light (or one in one out). Before I
flip the switch, both wires are not charged as tested by a tester. After
flipping the switch, both are charged. Yet, the light just won't light.

I removed the light and plug it in to a socket, it works.

Question:

1) did the test (both wires not charged and then charged after flipping
the switch) I do make sense?

2) how could the work in the other room affect the light next room? I do

I put a dimmer on the dining room light, got interrrupted in the middle
for a long time, then didn't know why the range hood didn't work. The
wire for the range hood came out of the box with the dining room light
switch. Of course the wall was right between the rooms.

You're using a real volt meter, not a neon light or something? The
lightbulb is not in the socket when you are testing the voltage to it?


I used a neon light tester.

That's NO GOOD. It can show something as hot that isn't, just because
something nearby is hot. Once you have one mistake in your perception
of things, you'll never figure out the truth.

The light bulb was in the fixture. The light
worked when both the fixture and the light bulb were removed and
connected to another circuit.

So there's nothing wrong with the lightbulb but using neon, you haven't
learned a thing about the socket wires.

You need a VOM, a volt-ohmmeter. HarborFreight has them for 4 or 5
dollars. If that isn't handy, Home Depot has them for 10 or 20.

You're going to have to get a real meter, do all the same measurements,
and if necessary, come back here with useful results.

$10 is a small investment for something this important, considering what
electricians charge, and that a meter can last you 60 or 100 years.

Try to get a package of jumper wires too, with alligator clips on each
end, so that you can connect the black wire from the meter to another
location, such as a ground, and only have to pay attention to the red
proble.

!!! While analog meters, with a moving needle, have an advantage in a
few situations, if you're only going to have one meter, I think digital
is much better and much more useful.

Don't get a battery tester, don't get non-contact.

This, or something that looks like this, only $10:
https://www.amazon.com/WeePro-Vpro85...-search&sr=8-4

Note that there is one set of settings for AC and one for DC. Try to
set things right before touching the leads to the wires. Most meters
have over-voltage protection now but it's good practice, and some day
you may be using a meter without that.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=vom&link_...tag=mozilla-20

The more expensive ones have options you'll probably never use.

Jumper wires, 1000 uses:

https://www.amazon.com/WGGE-WG-026-P...-search&sr=8-4

Thanks for the advice. But actually, I have found neon testers to be
quite handy. I only need to use one hand to operate it. I do have a
multimeter but it takes two hands to operate. So, unless it's absolutely
necessary, I just use the neon tester.