On Sat, 21 Dec 2019 09:21:16 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

On 20/12/19 22:25, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 20 Dec 2019 14:39:41 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

The light in the laundry room stops working after worker had worked on
the ceiling in the next room.

There are two wires coming in to the light (or one in one out). Before I
flip the switch, both wires are not charged as tested by a tester. After
flipping the switch, both are charged. Yet, the light just won't light.

I removed the light and plug it in to a socket, it works.

Question:

1) did the test (both wires not charged and then charged after flipping
the switch) I do make sense?

2) how could the work in the other room affect the light next room? I do

I put a dimmer on the dining room light, got interrrupted in the middle
for a long time, then didn't know why the range hood didn't work. The
wire for the range hood came out of the box with the dining room light
switch. Of course the wall was right between the rooms.

You're using a real volt meter, not a neon light or something? The
lightbulb is not in the socket when you are testing the voltage to it?


I used a neon light tester. The light bulb was in the fixture. The light
worked when both the fixture and the light bulb were removed and
connected to another circuit.

see that there are three wires in the switch box, none of them neutral
or ground. They are all live wires. Two on one side of the switch, one
on the other side. The two are charged, the other is only charged after
the switch is flipped.

This is the switch for the light that does not work?

The "two are charged" when the switch is not flipped, but are both
charged when the switch is flipped?

Yes and yes.



Is there more than one switch controlling the light in hte laundry
room? Not very common but would account for there being 3 wires to the
switch.

No.

Alternate question, are the two that are charged directly conneded
outside the switch, by a continuous piece of copper, or are they
connected inside the switch. (I'm assuming one is connected to the
other and the second one is hot only because it's connected. That's
probably true.)


They are connected directly to the switch, two wires going into one side
of the switch and being tightened by a switch screw, the other going to
the other side of the switch.
Somethin's not right. There should NOT be 2 wires under one screw.
What wires are in the box with the switch - and what colours are on
each screw of the switch?
If there is power on one black wire at the switch, and no power on
either wire at the socket with the bulb removed and the switch off you
should have 1 black wire on each switch screw and 2 white wires
wire-nutted in the switch box.
If you have power on one black wire at the socket with the switch off
and the bulb removed there will be 2 wires (1 black and one white) at
the switch and 4 wires in the box at the light. The blach live wire
will be connected to the white of the other pair. The white of the
"feed" pair will be connected to the silver screw of the socket or the
white wire of the fixture. The black wire of the "dead" or switch pair
connects to the dark screw or the black wire of the fixture. The white
leads to the "shell" of the socket, the black to the center "pin" or
"spring". The two wires at the switch connect to the switch, with the
white wire marked with a black tape, marker, or shrink-tube to
identify it as "HOT". Bare wires are connected to the box at both
locations, and to the freen wire if it exists on the lamp fixture.