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[email protected] gfretwell@aol.com is offline
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Default New electrical circuit - requesting assistance

On Wed, 20 Nov 2019 22:28:26 -0600, Jim Joyce
wrote:

On Wed, 20 Nov 2019 20:18:33 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 20 Nov 2019 15:37:01 -0600, Jim Joyce
wrote:

On Wed, 20 Nov 2019 05:30:59 -0600, Dean Hoffman
wrote:

On 11/19/19 9:33 PM, Jim Joyce wrote:
Hi folks,

I'm planning to run a new electrical circuit out to a storage shed in my
back yard and I'd like some help with the details. I'm the homeowner and
I'll be doing most of the work myself, but I want it to be safe and up to
code.

Q: Any issues so far? I know the black and white wires need to be 8AWG, but
does the green (ground) also need to be 8AWG? Am I looking for wire labeled
THHN or is it something different? I'm buying everything at the local Home
Depot.

I'd sure ask the electrician about buying the wire from him. He
has his markup,
of course, but you won't be buying stuff to throw in the corner of your
shed to gather
dust.

If I go with UF-B, it looks like I can use the leftovers for inside wiring
to the lights and receptacles, so I could easily use the whole 150ft.

I'm used to using quad 4 aluminum and larger in my world. Maybe
aluminum wire
would be a cheaper choice. You boxes would have to be rated for it,
though.

I know AL is still used for some purposes, but I thin I want to stick with
CU.


You are going to find that if you are wiring devices with #10 you
better have greatly oversized boxes or you will have a real hard time
stuffing that wire back in there. The fill calc for #10 is 2 cu/in per
conductor and 4 more cu/in for the device. That adds up fast and the
minimum size you come up with still might be hard to use.


I have plenty of room, so using a bigger box to get room to work wouldn't
be a problem. I haven't bought any of that stuff yet.


Nobody ever complained that this box was too big ;-)

You will also be using industrial grade 20a devices to find ones that
will accept 10 ga wire. Most 15 and 20a devices are limited to 12 ga.


I just now checked the Leviton site and it seemed like nearly every switch
can accommodate 10ga wire "back wired", but only 12ga if it's "side wired".
I hope "back wired" doesn't refer to that push-in method but rather
something more substantial. I may have to hold one in my hand to see what
back wired is all about.


They mean the clamping plate that is under the screw on better
devices. That is true on spec/commercial grade devices but your normal
Home Depot $1 special just has screw terminals and maybe the dreaded
spring back stab hole.