On 17/11/2019 17:16, ARW wrote:
On 17/11/2019 16:53, Tricky Dicky wrote:
Back again! I had a little rethink. When we bought the kitchen we were
never too accurate on the total distance the pantry made it very
difficult to measure up so we factored generous finger spaces for the
washing machine and dishwasher and accepted we would have quite
generous trimmers at each end of the cupboard run. However paring
everything down to the minimum we can now squeeze in a wine rack this
would now allow me to fit the socket behind the wine rack which if it
does go the full depth I can easily reduce to allow hand space. So the
socket can go the other side of the trunking.

As for standing the CU off the wall I thought that had gone by the way
with all the focus on maintaining the flame proof integrity of the CU.
that makes things an awful lot easier. As the trunking already fitted
is below plaster level I will not take it behind the CU but will stand
off the CU enough to ease the cables behind. It would be difficult to
align trunking with the knock outs as having to come in from the side
two of the fixing screws are below the level of the knockouts. I
presume that the stand offs need to be fireproof and not like the two
wooden battens the present CU is fastened too. I take it from what you
said it would still be OK to flood the area of the rear entries with
intumescent sealant to maintain integrity.

So it is looking like I am going back to Plan A bring the tails up
through the LH knockout, I will leave generous space to fit the socket
to the RH side if I have to and just live with the tails being bent
round to make space. In the long term it may not be so much of an
issue as we will be getting a smart meter fitted and from the ones
I've seen they are quite compact and if needs be can be fixed lower
down than the present meter is on the DNOs board.

One helpful factor is because I am not fitting the meter tails direct
to the CU but to the isolator. I can actually makeup the tails between
CU and isolator when I am arranging the MCBs, Main Switch and RCBOs
etc. So I can fit them in before hanging the CU on the wall as they
will simply fit into the other end of the isolator.

Please confirm this is a workable solution.



Why do uk.d-i-y posters always over engineer everything?



And very workable.


--
Adam