On 22/09/2019 20:55, bert wrote:
In article irect.com,
samuel m writes
replying to k8lfox, samuel wrote:
I had to remove a old Stannah Stairlift 300, and it was a pain to do.
It took
a couple hours to figure it out, but I finally removed it.
I had to destroy it, but I'll explain what I did.

Tools needed:
- Power drill
- Hex nut driver set
- Adjustable wrench
_ Hex Key allen wrench set (metric)
- Tin snips
- WD-40

I removed a straight section which was about 8 ft.Â* The stairlift was
powered
and still worked.
The idea is to move the chair to the top of the lift, then remove it
somehow.

If you watch some videos on Youtube, you'll see that some stairlifts
have a
removeable track section at the top of the lift.Â* This lets the
installers drop in the stairlift without even
removing it from the track.
Which means, you don't have to open the unit to remove it.

So, if your stairlift has this removeable portion, you can try moving the
stairlift to the top,
and then remove the entire top section, chair and all.Â* There should be a
metal plate underneath the track
that holds both sections together.Â* Use an adjustable wrench to remove
the
plate.

Or, if you don't have a removable track section at the top, then
there's plan
B.

At the top of the lift, there's 3 things you'll have to remove. There's a
small rectangular metal piece attached on the topside of track, along
the track teeth.Â* It looks like some
kind of limiter.Â* Use an adjustable wrench to remove it.

At the bottom of the track, I found two more limiters.Â* It's a white
plastic
piece that triggers the stairlift
to stop.Â* Use an adjustable wrench to remove both.

Also, at the top of the lift, remove the plastic end piece.Â* You'll
need a hex
allen wrench to remove it.Â* Then screw back the hex bolts, as they
hold a cable wheel
pulley in place.

You have 3 options to move your stairlift up:
- Power it on, and move it up by motor.
- Use a hand crank to move it up.
- Use a special nut driver that fits into the crank hole, and use a power
drill to move it up.

I was able to move the stairlift to the top using its own power.Â* It
got to
the end, but the unit
didn't come off all the way.Â* The back rollers still held the unit.
So, this
is where you destroy the unit.

- Unplug the power.
- The seat was in the way, so I removed 4 hex bolts with an allen hex
wrench
that held down the seat.
- To remove the seat completely, I had to use tin snips to cut the wires
attached to it.
- I rocked the unit back and forth and made some progress, but it still
wouldn't come off.
- I used tin snips to cut a heavy counterweight cable that held the
unit down.
- I sprayed the track underneath and the back rollers with WD-40.
- I rocked the unit back and forth for several minutes, and the unit
finally
came off.
- The track at the top was totally chewed up.Â* All power cables have
been cut.

The unit itself weighs over 100 lbs, so you may need a 2nd person to
help you
carry it down.

To remove the track bolted to the stairs, I first sprayed the bolts
with WD-40
to loosen them up.
Then used a hex nut driver and power drill to remove them.

And that's how I did it.










And in the immortal words of the Hayes manuals Reinstallation is the
opposite of de-installation.

A friend, who is a fan of classic minis, told me that the Haynes manual
says for one task, "reassembly is not necessarily the reverse of
disassembly", but says nothing more!

SteveW