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John Rumm John Rumm is offline
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Default Electrical switch issue

On 29/08/2019 14:13, dennis@home wrote:
On 29/08/2019 09:49, wrote:
On Wednesday, 28 August 2019 19:48:13 UTC+1, rickÂ* wrote:
In the kitchen I have an MK Grid Switch this has a nice neatly labelled
switch for each of kitchen fixed appliances.

The Oven (not hob) is a 20A DP switch and is fed from a dedicated 20A
radial cct on 4mm2 cable
Grid switch feeds to an MK5045 cooker wiring point

Oven is being replaced with a Neff U1ACE2HN0B and information is that it
is rated at 5.9kwÂ* ..... which to me says 26A

I can't find a Grid switch higher than 20A ..... I know I could increase
breaker to 32A ... but would then need higher capacity grid switch

Anybody any suggestions ?


So far only thought is I would need to put a link in bypassing the GRID
switch (and fit a blanking plate)Â* and put a DP cooker switch instead of
MK5045 connection point.
Unless anyone else has a better idea.


If my idea is the option what in neatest way to 'bridge' the 4mm t&e ...
use WAGO lever connectors ...
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/WA412.html
They are good for 32A
or WAGO push connectors rated at 40A
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/WA412.html

Anybody experience of using these ?Â*Â*Â* which is easiest to useÂ* ... or
is there a better way

Connection will be within confines of the 'back box'Â*Â* so all still
protected.


apply diversity


NT


How does diversity help with a switch, can you be sure its not going to
switch the 26A and weld the contacts?

Its not like heating of cables which is averaged over time its an
instantaneous event.


Not only that, for a fixed appliance like an oven, double pole switching
capable of proper (i.e. = 3mm contact gap) isolation would be appropriate.


--
Cheers,

John.

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