On 8/11/2019 10:28 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, August 11, 2019 at 9:47:48 AM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 8/10/2019 10:06 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, August 10, 2019 at 8:44:01 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 8/10/2019 6:26 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 10 Aug 2019 11:37:08 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:
On 8/9/2019 10:45 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 9 Aug 2019 10:30:53 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
On 8/8/2019 9:43 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 10:01:05 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
On 8/8/19 8:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 7:50:04 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
On 8/8/19 4:44 PM, Orson wrote:
replying to Rob Mills, OrsonÂ* wrote:
As a former Sears employee and woodworker do you have any good ideas for
replacement parts?
I have a 30+ year old Craftsman table saw model 113.241691 and I need a
replacement flex drive shaft (part #62884).Â* It is not supported by Sears
anymore.
Thank you, Orson
Google is your helper he
https://www.shopyourway.com/questions/1039207
Were these flex drive models any good?
My gut feel is no, but I can't say why, other than seeing the belt driven
models everywhere, including my shop for the past 30 plus years. Never saw
a flex drive before, not even on youtube.
I've never used one, so I have no meaningful experience. I will say that I have a 25 year
old direct drive model that continues to serve me well. Then again, I ripped out the right wing,
built a router table into it, put on an Incra precision fence, installed a Woodworker II ... IOW
the only thing original is the stand, the motor, and the left cast iron wing ...
That sounds much like my Craftsman. Router table extension and Delta fence.
Blade varies based on usage.
Get A WWII already. ;~)
I use two different blades both are WWII 40 tooth 1/8" kerf. I had one
of 4 ground to cut a flat bottom. NOW, I do also have a Forrest dado set.
Instead of regrinding one for a flat bottom, just buy a Forrest #1
grind blade. I also have a Forrest dado set. I also have a Freud set
for MDF, and such.
When you have 4 WWII ATB blades, it is less expensive the have the flat
grind applied to one. In my case the one I bought in 1999.
But instead of buying another ATB, I bought the #1 grind. Now I
sharpen the one that needs it.
For ripping, cross cutting, and compound cuts I only use the one WWII
ATB 1/8" kerf blade. Why do I have more than one. I swap out when one
gets sent to Forrest to be resharpened.
There is nothing sweeter than a Freud Glue Line rip blade. It's well
worth the blade change, even with Forrest blades.
I really am very happy with my glue ready rips, seldom have to really
sand the edge except to rough, a touch, the surface for stains. The
saw/saws I use probably helps a lot.
The Freud blade is really nice, too, and designed specifically for the
task.
If I need to cut crap wood for a neighbor I pull out my Craftsman
circular saw.
I prefer to cut a straight line, even when helping a neighbor. ;-) I
do have blades I used for MDF, OSB, and such.
I don't even want questionable material scratching my TS surface.
Neighbors will bring anything over that they find.
I don't think I want "anything that they find" in my basement. Sounds
like something for a seawall.
I guess you'se guys would have a hard time with what I reclaim/reuse... 
100+ yr old 16-20 footers are far better material underneath the old
paint and weather than anything cut now...of course, this is fascia
material for the re-doing of the house not furniture, but still...when a
1x8 16-ft has nary a knot and 1/32" growth rings, it's pretty easy to
run it thru the planer and skim of the top as opposed to purchasing
"select" material at almost $50/piece and nothing over 14-ft available.
I did use the old Model 13 Rockwell/Delta planer for the rough work
rather than the PM 180 as it's quite a lot cheaper to replace the
smaller than the larger if do get a chip...I got lucky though, gotten
through almost all to be reused immediately and so far, haven't missed
anything before going thru...
I really, really hope you haven't jinxed yourself. :-0
Yes, that would be good...
Good luck with the rest of the boards.
Indeed. I've got ~800 running feet of 3" bead board that was soffit
that we replaced of which perhaps 2/3-rds is mostly reclaimable.
Debated for long time about replacing or trying to redo in place and
finally decided to put new material up as the time that would be
required to strip and retouch joints in place just too much...plus, it's
good to get the Dirty Thirties and Filthy Fifties accumulated dirt down
as well...as much as 2-3" in places on top of soffit.
Many years ago I helped demo a farmhouse kitchen. Late 1800's brick house,
where the "woodshed" was right off the kitchen and inside the brick
perimeter. The owner's were expanding the kitchen by incorporating the
woodshed into the space.
When we pulled the old wainscoting off the walls we found that the stud bays
were almost half full with critter debris, droppings and the occasional
carcass. 3' - 4' up the wall, every bay. What a mess to clean up, since it
was all inside the house. Shovels, dust masks and lots of contractor bags.
Best part of the weekend:
The old fireplace was still in the wall between the kitchen and the woodshed.
A few guys went up on the roof and into the attic and tore the chimney down
to the attic floor. Then they went into the woodshed and wrap chains around
the fireplace supports, hooked them up to 2 tractors and pulled the base out,
dropping the rest of the chimney into the kitchen/woodshed. Lot's of noise,
but when the dust cleared we see the sky 2 stories above the kitchen.
My sons, 10 and 12 at the time, were there. Now in their 30's, it's something
they still talk about.
Not found anything even approaching that...this is just good, clean
topsoil blown in by the KS winds during the main dust bowl years of the
30's mostly altho there were some also some really bad days in the 50s
drought years, too. With minor accumulations over the other 80-90 years
as well, of course.
Dad stripped all the exterior walls to insulate when did the major
remodel in the late 70s/early 80s so they're still pretty good shape
where have needed to get in.
Discovered when we repaired the bad roofing job had done just before Dad
passed and we came back (had put metal drip edge on wood-shingles with
no overhang so it wicked back behind it and down the face of the fascia
and into soffit) discovered he had not done anything at all in the
attic...so we hauled out about 5" of dirt and insulated it then...all
that had been there was that black-paper covered 1/2" rock wool...a
little better than nothing, but not much.
What was the access to the cavities in that house? Doesn't seem like
should been that open w/ brick unless was balloon framing? Or had the
brick wall been added later on and just covered up existing old open
woodshed maybe?
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