On 8/9/2019 10:45 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 9 Aug 2019 10:30:53 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 8/8/2019 9:43 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 10:01:05 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
On 8/8/19 8:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 7:50:04 PM UTC-4, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
On 8/8/19 4:44 PM, Orson wrote:
replying to Rob Mills, OrsonÂ* wrote:
As a former Sears employee and woodworker do you have any good ideas for
replacement parts?
I have a 30+ year old Craftsman table saw model 113.241691 and I need a
replacement flex drive shaft (part #62884).Â* It is not supported by Sears
anymore.
Thank you, Orson



Google is your helper he

https://www.shopyourway.com/questions/1039207

Were these flex drive models any good?

My gut feel is no, but I can't say why, other than seeing the belt driven
models everywhere, including my shop for the past 30 plus years. Never saw
a flex drive before, not even on youtube.



I've never used one, so I have no meaningful experience. I will say that I have a 25 year
old direct drive model that continues to serve me well. Then again, I ripped out the right wing,
built a router table into it, put on an Incra precision fence, installed a Woodworker II ... IOW
the only thing original is the stand, the motor, and the left cast iron wing ...

That sounds much like my Craftsman. Router table extension and Delta fence.

Blade varies based on usage.

Get A WWII already. ;~)

I use two different blades both are WWII 40 tooth 1/8" kerf. I had one
of 4 ground to cut a flat bottom. NOW, I do also have a Forrest dado set.

Instead of regrinding one for a flat bottom, just buy a Forrest #1
grind blade. I also have a Forrest dado set. I also have a Freud set
for MDF, and such.

When you have 4 WWII ATB blades, it is less expensive the have the flat
grind applied to one. In my case the one I bought in 1999.



For ripping, cross cutting, and compound cuts I only use the one WWII
ATB 1/8" kerf blade. Why do I have more than one. I swap out when one
gets sent to Forrest to be resharpened.

There is nothing sweeter than a Freud Glue Line rip blade. It's well
worth the blade change, even with Forrest blades.

I really am very happy with my glue ready rips, seldom have to really
sand the edge except to rough, a touch, the surface for stains. The
saw/saws I use probably helps a lot.



If I need to cut crap wood for a neighbor I pull out my Craftsman
circular saw.

I prefer to cut a straight line, even when helping a neighbor. ;-) I
do have blades I used for MDF, OSB, and such.


I don't even want questionable material scratching my TS surface.
Neighbors will bring anything over that they find.