On Fri, 12 Jul 2019 22:33:03 +0100, Rod Speed wrote:
"Commander Kinsey" wrote in message
news
On Fri, 12 Jul 2019 21:28:01 +0100, Rod Speed
wrote:
"Commander Kinsey" wrote in message
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On Fri, 12 Jul 2019 20:52:51 +0100, Rod Speed
wrote:
"Commander Kinsey" wrote in message
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On Fri, 12 Jul 2019 20:02:36 +0100, Rod Speed
wrote:
"Commander Kinsey" wrote in message
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On Fri, 12 Jul 2019 18:31:44 +0100, Rod Speed
wrote:
"Commander Kinsey" wrote in message
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On Fri, 12 Jul 2019 01:20:46 +0100, Rod Speed
wrote:
"Rod Speed" wrote in message
...
It cant be a fused line given that you still get
the battery flattened with no fuses installed.
If you can somehow rig up something that allows you to
see or hear the current draw, or have someone else watch
the meter, you may be able to see if its a door by doing
that and operating the doors.
I've only ever seen it by leaving a multimeter connected with a
maximum
function running. Car sat perfectly still, it just does it
sometimes
overnight.
Yeah, you really need a proper data logger. Not expensive.
Not spending money on stuff for one little purpose like that.
But you did with the charger to kludge around the fault.
A 13.8V 15A power supply is very useful for all sorts.
And you should be able to flog it for about what you paid
for it once it has fixed the problem.
Too much hassle and I lose postage and Ebay fees etc. Only time I've
bothered "renting" something like that was a top of the range slide
scanner for a large amount of 35mm slides I wanted digitised.
And I can't see it would tell me anything, apart from "it happened
at
5am".
When it happens and the detail of how it happens
may well allow you to work out what is causing the
flattening of the battery overnight and fix the problem.
What can it tell me apart from the time of night it did it?
How long that high current lasted for. That would definitively
distinguish between the alarm being triggered and eventually
timing out and a pinched wire which would have quite
different timing, particular over different nights.
I know it's a long time as it can flatten the battery.
But you dont know if its continuous when it happens
or intermittent. If it was intermittent and regular it
could well be the alarm triggering, then timing out,
the triggering again and then timing out again etc.
You wouldnt normally get that with a pinched wire.
True, but I'm not spending any more on the problem.
More fool you when is peanuts and the alternative is to
have to manually charge the damned thing every night.
I've already spent time and money trying to trace the ****ing fault and I've had enough of it. My current system works fine. I leave a pair of croc clips sat at the end of my drive and connect them every time I come home, not a hassle at all.
And that would allow you to see which door is the problem
too if it is one of the doors pinching a cable as its closed.
What makes you think it's a door?
Its the most obvious way to pinch a cable.
Actually I've just had an ABS wire fixed that had been damaged by the
handbrake.
Sure, I didnt say its the only one. And that one wouldnt
be fused either. Neither would the airbag triggers.
Airbags certainly are fused.
Mine arent.
I know people who have taken the fuse out.
But you dont know its fused in your steaming turd with wheels.
So if it shorts it just causes a fire? Everything should be fused.
They are internally fused. That way they cant set fire
to the car and can't have the fuse pulled by a car thief.
The fuse must be at the start of the circuit, or a short in the feed wire can cause a fire. Imagine a table lamp in your house with a fuse in its plug, but the cable leading from the consumer unit to the socket is unfused. What do you think would happen if a rat ate the wire in the wall? Now consider a car where shorts in wires throughout the chassis are much more likely.
Modern car security is about a lot more than not having
a fuse for the alarm in the main fuse box.
What?