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Clare Snyder Clare Snyder is offline
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Default Two simple questions that came up when mounting tires at home

On Fri, 17 May 2019 20:38:23 -0000 (UTC), "Arlen G. Holder"
wrote:

On Fri, 17 May 2019 13:34:18 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote:

The standard valve seats tightli in the hole, against the inner rim
surface, and against the outer rim surface. The high pressure stem
would "float" in the hole. It MAY not leak - but I sure wouldn't bet
on it!!


Hi Clare,
Thanks for that advice that the "shorter" (in height) the inevitable rubber
grommet in the bolt-in type, the less change there might be of leakage.

I haven't mentioned this until now, but as an experiment, on the last set
of tires I mounted & balanced at home, I temporarily switched grommets from
the 0.453" to the 0.625" size to visually see what the difference might be.
https://i.postimg.cc/4xjQV43s/valve06.jpg

It's hard to tell from that crappy picture, but the larger grommet clearly
bulged outward, looking from the inside of the rim as that picture shows.

The end result, after match mounting, & during balancing, looks like this:
https://i.postimg.cc/gjv3V3nW/valve09.jpg

You overthink EVERYTHING. If the high pressure stem was "the right
one" for standard rims why the 7734 would they make 2 different stems
- particularly when they sell for the same price????


Hi Clare,
What you're saying is to _assume_ the answer, which is fine, but where the
spec is what I go by in almost all cases, where, unfortunately, only the
MAXIMUM spec was written on the package.

Bearing in mind that the package I usually get has _both_ the 0.453" and
0.625" grommets, clearly _some_ of those valve stems are designed to fit
both sized holes.


Bolt in - yes. Pull-in rubber NO
Of course, there's NOTHING on the package itself that says what the MINIMUM
spec is, so, clearly, it has to be _assumed_ where I generally hate
assuming things because of the natural tendency to assume whatever you
_want_ the outcome to be.

BTW, at the store, I only had two choices:
1. Snap in - mostly rubber, or,
2. Snap in - mostly brass.
https://i.postimg.cc/brH3z70k/valve10.jpg


Of _those_ two, which would you prefer?
(I like the all brass bolt-in type - but they weren't available.)


You wouldn't catch medead installing the HP (mostly brass) stem in a
standard steel automotive wheel, or the all rubber one in a HD truck
rim. Different horses for different courses


. Bolt in is a LOT less critical of rim thickness, and I do not
believe they even make the 2 versions.


I'm a bit confused by what you said about not making the two versions since
I clearly use the bolt in 1-1/2" dual 0.453"/0.625 size all the time so I
am not sure what two versions you speak about.


They make 2 DIFFERENT snap in valve stems - one for thin rims
(standard) and one for thick rims (high pressure). They only make one
bolt-in - it works on standard and high pressure - and even both hole
sizes.

I guess what you're implying is there is no "snap in" version for the
thicker rims, which, if that's what you're saying , that makes sense.


No - you showed in your link the snap-in for thicker rims. The fact
that they DO make separate snap-ins for the two thicknesses means
something. The FACT that they do not need to make "separate" bolt-ins
for the 2 thicknesses also says something.

What I take from this is there is a NEED for 2 different snap-in stems
- so you NEED to use the right one. There is NO NEED for "separate"
bolt-ins - so they don't make them - and they can be used
"universally"

As for the bolt in versus the snap in, thanks for your advice that the bolt
in is less critical of rim widths.

I don't know why for sure, but I like the bolt-in types, but, I would
assume the snap-in types "might" be more flexible when rubbing against
curbs (where I size the length to be below the rim edges so that's less
likely to happen unless it's an odd-sized rock outcrop - which we do get
here in the mountains - but it's not often that a wheel rubs against them).
https://i.postimg.cc/ZqBZsHZ6/valve07.jpg


The valve stem should NEVER protrude far enough to "catch" on
anything. That's why they make something like 6 different lengths of
"snap in" stems and at least as many "bolt in".

When I had 3 out of 4 rubber snap-in stems fail (crack and lose air)
within a week of each othe (while on a cross-country trip) when less
thana year old I decided to use bolt-ins from then on. The quality of
the mostly chinese produced snap-in stems is questionable (at best,
and to say the least)
I use a straightedge as shown below to check that the valve is below
flush, where I like the valve to be as long as possible, but below flush:
https://i.postimg.cc/mDsq3yrL/valve08.jpg

I install the bolt-in ones on my own vehicles. I guess that MAYBEE
says something???


Thanks for stating that you like the bolt-in type, which is the kind I tend
toward myself. Those bolt-in types just "seem" better, where about the only
"difference" I can see offhand is twofold:
a. They may be less flexible if rubbed against than the snap-in types
b. They fit small & large rim holes, where I only need the 0.453" size


The BIG advantage is they are metal, not some unknown
"frankenrubber" that hardens and cracks from ultraviolet and ozone
exposure. Yhe disadvantage is they might be some kind of Chinese
"franken alloy" and corrode off in 6 months - - - - -


I guess a third difference is that, technically, they're removable, but I
can't imagine re-using them except in some kind of dire emergency.

You mean re-installable. Even frankenrubber snap-ins are removeable
- but like bolt-ins they are likely to come out in 2 peices. Unlike
frankenrubber, the 2 pieces CAN be re-assembled and re-used - at least
theoretically.