On Saturday, May 4, 2019 at 10:59:16 PM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sat, 04 May 2019 23:22:29 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 04 May 2019 20:29:34 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sat, 4 May 2019 15:01:25 -0700 (PDT), A K
wrote:

On Saturday, May 4, 2019 at 12:06:20 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Fri, 03 May 2019 21:37:19 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Fri, 3 May 2019 16:16:56 -0700 (PDT), A K
wrote:

On Friday, May 3, 2019 at 10:56:08 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Fri, 3 May 2019 04:00:44 -0700 (PDT), A K
wrote:

On Wednesday, May 1, 2019 at 8:51:00 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Wed, 1 May 2019 06:29:05 -0700 (PDT), A K
wrote:

I mainly work with 10 - 22 gauge wire.

I have been using the blade type connectors, but they are a bit klunky to attach.

Is there anything better that I can solder my wires to?

Thanks,
Andy
https://www.mouser.com/new/TE-Connec...te-mate-n-lok/

Thanks.

Took a while weeding thru some posters with anger problems.

:-)

Andy

There are other competitive connector systems but it is usually best
to pick one and use it for most of your projects because you will end
up with a collection of common connectors and tools. Crimps really do
seem superior with these types of connections but you need a real
crimper.

I have a real crimper but the connectors do not compare to soldering.

Just today I had a wire pull out of a connection that used a blade connector.

Andy
A wire will not pull ot of a quality connector crimped with the proper
"real" crimper, They form a gas-tight crimp that virtually "welds" the
connector to the wire.

This usually happens when the terminal is rated for bigger wire than
you are using or you didn't get a good crimp.
IBM stopped soldering terminals in the early 60s. We did have
different crimpers for different manufacturer's terminals. They pretty
much settled in on AMP tho.

Thanks for the info.

I do think I used thinner wire that the connector called for.

May have been 20 gauge wire in a 14-16 connector.

I use this type of crimper.

"https://www.walmart.com/ip/Boston-Industrial-Insulated-Wire-Terminals-and-Connectors-Assortment-with-3-in-1-Wire-Stripper-Cutter-and-Crimper-Tool-175-Piece-Set/469426815"
That's not a crimper. That's a "mangler".

At a bare minimum you need something like this:

https://images11.palcdn.com/hlr-syst...355331_in1.jpg

Not cheap, but under $50 Canadian - not like some of the specialized
AMP crimpers

https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...er/A-p8355315e

With some practice you can get a decent crimp on the insulated
terminals like he has in that kit but it is very sensitive to being
sure you are right in the center of the barrel. You still will not
get the same uniform crimp that you get with the die style you posted
Basically just punching a divot into the side of the sleave isn't
very effective - particularly if the divot is opposite the split in
the sleave - - - -. If you can compress the sleave all the way around
the wire you have a fighting chance



Just found another pretty decent looking crimper for low price:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-In-1-Wire...kAAOSwcVtbbUFB
$29.99 us plus shipping out of California.
or Voilamart Cable Crimper Tool Kit Wire Terminal Ratchet Plier
Crimping Set on ebay out of south carolina for $7.25 US!!

Thanks. That's a price I can afford.

Andy