On Wednesday, December 12, 2018 at 10:18:52 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Wednesday, December 12, 2018 at 9:37:20 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Wednesday, 12 December 2018 13:26:18 UTC, wrote:

There are two parts of an LED lamp/fixture.

a) The LED emitters themselves: These are pretty generic beasts, and while not-quite-one-size-fits-all, the same emitter may provide light from between 3000K to 5000K. They are also pretty bullet-proof.

in excellent quality lamps maybe. Not at all bullet-proof in domestic LED lights.


Possibly true, but the failure mode of an emitter is not flicker.

A broken bonding wire will cause a flicker as it heats, then opens. It cools and comes back on. Not that you actually know anything about Semiconductors and how the dies connect to the outside world. Stick with your junk, tube amplifiers and radios.

I have done autopsies on a handful of failed LED bulbs Every one so far has had the case vent on the Electrolytic capacitor, and spraying the electrolyte inside the plastic case. The bulbs are easy to open. A thin film of RTV holds the dome on the bas. Twist it and it breaks free. Once they are open, there are two solder pads from the bottom part. Unsolder them, and you can replace the electrolytic. I was more interested in converting some of the to 12Volts instead of repairing them. The internal construction was identical on the $1 Sunbeam bulbs as higher priced, better known brands.