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On Friday, 15 March 2019 12:56:43 UTC, whisky-dave wrote:
On Thursday, 14 March 2019 17:44:24 UTC, tabby wrote:
On Thursday, 14 March 2019 11:17:35 UTC, whisky-dave wrote:
On Wednesday, 13 March 2019 17:29:08 UTC, tabby wrote:
On Wednesday, 13 March 2019 16:55:05 UTC, whisky-dave wrote:
On Wednesday, 13 March 2019 13:57:20 UTC, tabby wrote:
On Wednesday, 13 March 2019 13:49:29 UTC, whisky-dave wrote:
On Wednesday, 13 March 2019 13:27:27 UTC, dennis@home wrote:

When we first started PAT testing I had to unscrew the tops
off any none moulded plug for such things checks and change
the fuse from 13amp to 5 amp or 3 amp.
Any plug without shrouded pins was removed and replaced.
I had a box of 100s of 13amp fuses at the end, probbly still
have them somewhere.
Then the lead was PAT tested using the PAT testing machine.

Modern appliances are all safe on a 13A fuse. Old ones not
always.

But the fuse is to protect the cable not the appliance.

on recent stuff yes. Old stuff often really does need that 3A fuse
if it's to be safe.

But it has to come up to the recent standards that;s why you have tp
replace the cord

My 1937 mains lead is still ok & compliant. Many that age aren't of
course.

and check for earthing on antique light fittings, although I cna
think you can leave them as is providing they can't be connected up
easily.
Or for specialsed places like museums.

Can be an interesting question how one can make noncompliant antiques
safe.

It's quite easy yuo just make them comply to the necessary safety rules.

Like the vulcan bomber, remove the nuclear weapons and all weapons
and makew sure that no one can just jump in and take off in it it is
then consider safe, but it;s still an aircraft that can be seen and
viewed.

lol. How would you make a live chassis curtain burner safe then?

Use and isolating transformer, stupid.