"trader_4" wrote in message
...
On Monday, March 4, 2019 at 8:35:58 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Mon, 4 Mar 2019 16:47:38 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Monday, March 4, 2019 at 7:37:06 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Mon, 4 Mar 2019 13:24:07 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Monday, March 4, 2019 at 4:07:24 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Mon, 04 Mar 2019 04:44:01 GMT, Shay
m wrote:

replying to Danny D., Shay wrote:
Just for info. If you touch a main drain or swim around it, you
wont feel
the water flowing nor suction. Reason being is because the covers
are
anti-vortex. But aside from that, main drains are not like a
bathtub where it
sucks in water forcefully. They pull in particals from the water,
not just
water. And if you have a hot tub/Spa, you might see leaves or
other debris in
the spa getting sucked toward the drains. This is because the
drains In a spa
are stronger and the jets in the spa circulate the debris. And a
main drain
isnt actually a drain, its a housing pipe, suction outlet that
goes back
to the pump. Just wanted to put that out there.

The best (safest) way to tell is with a stick of PVC pipe. Pour
some
water in the top with a little food color in it with the pipe a
foot
or 2 from the drain. If the drain is working the color will be
sucked
in. If it just pools around, the drain is not working.

I used food dye to figure out the approximate location of a leak in a
skimmer line one time. The symptom was that small stones were
showing
up in the filter basket. Then I observed that dirty, mud color water
showed up at the filter some seconds after the pump started. So, I
put some food coloring in the skimmer, turned on the pump and counted
the seconds for it to reach the filter. I also timed how long it
took for the muddy water to show up. Then I used the ratio of the
two times to figure that the break must be about at about 20% of the
run length, closer to the pump. Maybe I didn't need to do that,
because
the next thing I came up with was to pressurize the line with the air
compressor. Doing that, I heard hissing and bubbling and there was
air
coming out of the ground, right about at the predicted distance.
Fortunately the spot was just short of the stamped concrete deck.
Upon investigation, it looked like it was compromised when they
backfilled
it some years earlier. It was that flex PVC and it was crushed and
broken.
Had it been under the huge deck, that would have been a disaster.

I still have a little patch of grass next to my pool, right where the
skimmer is because that is where most pool leaks show up. The dog
likes a little grass there too. It is a comfortable place to take a
nap.

It's probably a good idea to make a deck out of pavers instead of
stamped
concrete too. At least with regular concrete if you need to cut it,
take
out a section, replace it, you can do that, though it may not match too
well.
But with stamped I don't think you have a prayer. Sometimes I wonder
how
many pools up here are not really winterized right, blowing out the
lines,
correctly plugging them, etc. and people just get lucky because they are
deep enough and it just doesn't get cold enough most winters for them to
freeze and bust.

All of the pool decks in the houses my wife built used pavers but that
was mostly because if they did not get the back fill compacted right
it was easy to pull up enough pavers to fill the low spot and get it
level again. Pavers also do not crack.

Another big issue with stamped concrete is that the finish does not last
and wears off.

It hasnt done with the few I know well. Someone I know well's
builder husband did their driveway like that. Its a complete pain
in the arse to walk on with what you lot call flip flops and we call
thongs, but has last just as well as the best poured concrete
driveways for what has been well over 30 years now.

My rear patio lasted about ten years,

Because it wasnt done by someone who knows how to do them.

now it's painted.

Complete pain in the arse to have to do that and keep doing it.

It still looks good and I'm happy with it, but it's not as cool
looking as it originally was. When researching it many years
ago, that was one key point that I didn't see. And when they
put it down, you can see what happens. A base color is mixed
into the concrete, then a different finishing color is sprinkled
on top before they stamp it with the pattern. That top stuff is
only embedded into the very top of the concrete and over time
it wears off and you start seeing just the base color concrete.

Not when its done properly it doesnt.

At some point, about ten+ years here, it starts to look noticeable and
uneven.

Not when its done properly it doesnt.

Now it's painted. It still looks good, because you have the
stamped indentations that make it look like stone. But originally
you had color variation that made it look even better. Maybe
you can prolong it longer by re-sealing it more ofter.

Dont need to seal it at all when its done properly.

Did it about every 3 years here, but that's a major pain in the ass
project too.

Thats why it should be done properly in the first place.

Pavers avoid that. Used the good sealer stuff too, the solvent based,
which you can't buy here anymore, courtesy of the green nuts.

Not hard to make your own.