On Thursday, February 14, 2019 at 11:20:08 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 2/11/2019 5:27 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Monday, February 11, 2019 at 2:15:28 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 2/10/2019 7:46 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have a 70's era Craftsman contractors saw. 113.298031
When I move the blade by hand it feels "chunky". I took the belt off so that
I was just spinning the blade and arbor and it "hesitates" every 1/2" or so.
It doesn't spin freely even with the belt off. As I pull the blade along I
can feel a soft thump, thump, thump. No hard clunking, but it requires an
increase in pulling power to get it past those points.
See if this video works. I'm trying to move the blade with a constant amount
of pull and you can see the stop and go. (Yes, I'm turning it backwards, but
it does the same thing going forward.)
https://youtu.be/jy_4iQ9DE2g
If the belt is off, the blade should not be doing that. I would say the
bearings are done.
Time for a new track saw? ;~)
You were the first person I thought of while I was posting my question.
I totally expected you to say that. ;-)
;~)
I have a spare arbor (brand new) It has one bearing, the inside one near
the threads.
I guess I should order the outside bearing and tear the thing apart right?
From what I'm been reading, you're supposed take the entire arbor housing
out through the rear to get to the arbor bearing retainer screws. That
allows you to remove the outside bearing so you can slide the arbor
itself out.
Why not just cut a piece out of the sheet metal housing and do it all
from the side of the saw? As far as I can tell, that would give me direct
access to the 3 arbor bearing retainer screws. If I then covered the hole
with a piece of plywood (and sealed it up) I could hang all sorts of
accessories from the board. ;-) I'd also have easier access for future
maintenance/cleaning.
Can you remove the top and arbor trunion assembly?
Don't know yet. It still works and I need to finish the bench first.
I'm close, may even be done with the table saw, but I don't want to
take a chance of needing the saw before I'm done.
Here's the reason I was considering going in through the side:
It seems to me that if I start removing major components, such as the
top, the arbor housing, etc. it's going to mean a major tune-up once I
get it all back together. On the other hand, if all I need to do is
remove is 3 screws to get to the outer bearing, I should be able to slide
the arbor right out and then right back in.
Remember the Monza? If I recall correctly, you had to disconnect the
motor mounts and tilt the engine to get to one of the spark plugs. I
think it was on that car that somebody figured out that you could get
to the spark plug by cutting a hole in the wheel well. I may have my
cars/hacks mixed up, but that's the concept I'm talking about. Why
take half the saw apart just to get to 3 screws that a thin piece of
sheet metal is blocking?
Maybe it's not that simple but that's why I asked.
Other than destroying the re-sell value of a saw that I paid $110 for in
the mid-80's, is there any reason not to go in through the side?
I had a Craftsman contractors TS, Bought it new in 1983. Cast Iron top.
So with this saw the trunion assembly attaches to the table top. You
probably know this but you set the blade parallel to the miter slots by
loosening the bolts that attach the trunion assembly to the top adjust
and tighten. The top simply bolts to the outer housing/frame/sides to
the saw.
If you do not loosen the trunion/top connecting bolts and simply unbolt
the top from the frame/housing/outer sides of the saw and lift the
assembly out, you should loose no adjustments.
I don't know if you can actually lift the assembly out because of the
tilting and/or raising shafts that protrude through the holes in the case.
I've certainly never read/seen anyone do it that way on the ole interweb.
Is that something you have done or is that just hopeful speculation? ;-)
Unlike a typical cabinet saw. The cabinet saw trunion sits on to and
bolts to the saw cabinet and then the top bolts to the cabinet.
A funny story, many years ago our dishwasher water pump failed and I was
not about to pay a repair bill. So I bought the repair parts and over
the coarse of a couple of days managed to successfully repair the dish
washer. I did this by laying on the hard floor and working in the 4"
space under the dish washer. Some years later I realized that I could
have removed 2 screws attaching the dishwasher to the counter top and
simply rolled it out and turned it upside down with full unobstructed
access to everything.
Trust me, we've all had those "Damn, I'm an idiot" ...I mean...
learning moments. ;-)