Your water heater doesn't have a power vent on top does it? (That is, a
blower motor). I once replaced a number of thermocouples, only to find out
that one of the sensors (that determines if the exhaust gases are being
drawn off the top) was bad. Two sensors kept shutting off the gas.
Manufacturer's rep came out and snipped the wires to one of them saying two
sensors were overkill. Solved the problem. Don't use this solution, but
consider the cause if you have a power vent top.

"art" wrote in message
news
I'm at my wit's end with this. About 5 days ago, the pilot light on my
water
heater blew out. I reli t it. Lasted one day. Blew out again. Pulled out
the
burner assembly, replaced the thermocouple. Relit it. Lasted 15 hours.
Blew
out again. Took out the burner assembly, cleaned everything in sight ..
pilot lasted around 8 hours. There are no new entrways for drafts so I
don't
think its a draft issue...but to be on the safe side I stuffed every
potential air leaking crack.

I tend no to think it's a chimney issue as I've got a boiler also on that
chimney and I have no problem with the boiler. The draft on the chimney is
excellent. I'm down to two theories....one is the gas valve. Is this a
realistic issue? I've checked to see what happens when I go from full on
to
pilot and back to full on and back to pilot and back to full on. It goes
back and forth on each setting with no problem. The second explanatiion
might be the "popping" effect that sometimes comes with gas abruptly
shutting off....perhaps it's possible that the gas is now "popping" when
it
turns back to pilot and the force of the "pop" blows out the pilot.
Any and all suggestions gratefully received!

Thanks........Art


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