On 18/11/2018 16:44, newshound wrote:
On 18/11/2018 15:47, John Rumm wrote:
On 17/11/2018 15:36, NY wrote:


Disassembly, clean-up and re-gluing is probably the best approach.

For really good pull out resistance on a mortice and tenon joint, you
would need a wedged or "foxed" tenon. With chair leg joints you
normally have blind mortices, and so need hidden wedges.

Kind of like a round version of :

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...Blind_Mortices

(typically the mortice in the leg is widened toward its base, and then
the tenon on the stretcher, has a saw kerf cut down it across its
diameter. The wedge is then placed into the kerf once everything is
glued up, and the joint assembled and driven home)



Interesting. That's never been obvious to me in any of the chairs that I
have had come loose, but then I guess they don't come loose!

Well possibly - I don't know how commonly its done on modern chairs. I
would expect allot of modern stuff might just have a pin nail fired
through the side of the mortice and into the tenon.

What do you think of these things like Chair Doctor that are supposed to
make stuff swell up and then set? They have worked OK for me in a few
things, but I do normally try to clean out the old glue fairly well, and
I am pretty good at strapping things up tight either with tourniquets or
with multiple luggage elastics while they set.

If it makes the tenon swell, then its kind of doing a similar thing
(although without the undercut in the mortice, you don't get quite the
same mechanical lock).


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/