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trader_4 trader_4 is offline
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Default Water pressure booster pump won't start consistently - do yourebuild the bearings?

On Wednesday, August 15, 2018 at 3:52:36 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 8/15/2018 2:04 PM, Arlen Holder wrote:
...

And you should recharge it (when it is as empty as you can possibly get
it) to -2 psi from the pressure switch cutoff pressure. Leaving it so
low cam lead to premature failure of the diaphragm from over-flexing.


I'm confused by that advice - which isn't to say it's wrong - I just don't
know yet what the "cutoff pressure" is set to.


It is wrong--I inadvertently wrote "cutoff" instead of "cut-in" so to
set the record straight even though made the correct answer farther down
and not to have the mistype stand uncorrected...

That's why the "preset" is 38 psi; normal operating ranges and that for
which most pressure switches come preset is 40-60 and 38 is 40-2 (doh! )


I can see that the water storage tanks alone seem to be supplying about 55
psi according to the gauge at the front of the booster pump, if that
reading is correct.

...

That simply isn't physically possible given the arrangement you've
outlined; there can be only 5 or so psi of static head from a 10-ft tall
tank sitting at the same elevation.

Either the gauge won't zero or as noted elsewhere, the well pump was
running b


Even if the submersible pump was running, the water pressure at the storage tank is still determined by the water height and would be the same with the pump on or off. It might be a few pounds higher with the pump on, depending on how it's plumbed.



ut that pressure can NOT be real otherwise unless there's some
other external source backfeeding the system.

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