On 8/14/2018 4:51 PM, Arlen Holder wrote:
....

The main question now is where to check for voltage:
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=6939192pump06.jpg

Obviously the green is a common ground.
There are two blue wires going to the motor.
It's hard to tell colors from that picture so I might clean them up a bit
with the power off.

The two black appear to be the input lines but it's hard to tell from that
picture.

Well, when you look at the overview, since the switch box is mounted
directly on the motor, the two going to it can't be anything else
leaving only the two to the right...

....

I'll clean it up a bit and check the voltages, where I would expect to have
220VAC on the input at all times that the water tanks are full but nothing
on the output until the pressure drops to somewhere less than 70 psi.

Actually that will be closer to 50 psi or so if the switch is adjusted
to anything close to a normal 20 lb cycle. For this application they
may have tightened that up some but that would be normal. That relates
back to your other comment last evening regarding being surprised didn't
pull in again after you'd broken contact after a short running time.

From the above comment regarding colors, it looks to me like _perhaps_
the two supplies (blue) have been hot from the connectors leading to
discoloration of the insulation. It may just be from exposure but that
they're blackened ends and then transition to pristine as get farther
from the connectors makes me question.

I'd check on that while the pump has been running a while and also see
about cleaning up those connections. I'm not that keen on the slide-on
connectors for higher current applications; there's really not that much
good contact area often.

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