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Arlen Holder Arlen Holder is offline
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Default Water pressure booster pump won't start consistently - do you rebuild the bearings?

On 14 Aug 2018 15:05:29 GMT, dpb wrote:

Well, (so to speak ), that Q? was raised before we knew there _were_
two pumps and that there was a large storage tank elsewhere...as in the
followup sidebar w/ T4, that is _not_ a typical residential intallation
here nor for most of the other ahr regulars I believe.


It's my fault for not understanding the booster pump system well enough to
explain how it works.

I just checked the power wiring to and from the pressure switch and it's as
one would logically expect, with 120 volts each on the two input black
wires to the common green ground and essentially zero volts on the two
inside blue wires to the motor when the gauge pressure is at 75psi.
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=1169657flow04.jpg

Once those facts were revealed, _then_ all became much clearer as to
what the system is and how it must operate.


The only electrical thing to test now is what happens, electrically, at
this pressure switch, when the gauge pressure drops to around 65 psi.
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=7459999flow03.jpg

You've got to be able to pump what water there is over a long-enough
time to have sufficient reserve -- although 10 kgal is quite a reserve
for just a residence -- unless you have long(ish) periods where the well
is dry or nearly so or do you really irrigate that much on a regular basis?


Codes are now that everyone has to have a separate tank for fire alone,
where much of that 10,000 gallons is already reserved for fire via the
designs of the low-water cutoff switches.

I'm still curious as to what the actual down-hole pump size info is
altho it has no bearing on any of the issues, just wondering what kind
of actual well capacity might be...


I don't know. The wells never put out more than 6 gallons a minute.
And even that only happens for a few minutes at a time only.