On 14 Aug 2018 08:24:21 GMT, dpb wrote:
'Cuz it's clear he really _doesn't_ know how just how it works nor does
he even recognize what some of the pieces-parts are so doesn't
understand what is/isn't possibly significant...and appears to be one of
those that doesn't do anything until has studied it to satisfaction
whether it needs study or not... 
You are correct that I didn't know how it works until only about an hour
ago. For one, I didn't realize that the pressure switch had a water
connection until someone mentioned the pipe!
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=9773849pump01.jpg
In my defense, I never said that I understood how it works - I was asking
how it works.
A few things that I figured out today that people told me earlier are not
intuitive, for example, the 66 PSI is static pressure that is always there,
and the 75 PSI is all that the booster pump seems to add but the whole
"front" of the motor where the impeller must be is open to not only the
bladder tank but the big water tanks too ... so that is not intuitive!
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=8642122flow01.jpg
Yes, since the system is all tied together, for the purposes of control
"pressure is pressure" at the point relatively close to the tank. He
should investigate the possibility the gauge itself is stuck; it's
immaterial to system operation but if not functional could lead to
confusing the issues thinking there's pressure when there's not...the
one here was stuck last month when we hooked up the new well--I hadn't
noticed until we opened the system and the needle didn't move...
I tested the gauge sort of by opening the water supply at the wall of the
pump house when the main house had no water pressure - and while the gauge
read 66 psi, the water pressure was fine at the wall of the pump house.
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=7395493pump12.jpg
So I have no reason to disbelieve the gauge pressure, especially as there
is definitely a ten foot high column of water coming into that "front"
cast-iron end of the pump motor:
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=9413854pump02.jpg
I'm still curious about this so-called "level" sensor,
though...somewhere he talked about there being open tanks; I suppose if
he does have a larger reservoir besides the pressure tank somewhere else
there could be a level sensor in one or them...in that case the leads
will run out wherever that is.
This is the wiring diagram for the water level sensor:
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=2443640pressure10.jpg
The level sensor is EASY to test and it is working fine!
The water level sensor simply floats in the tank. When it floats, it closes
a switch in the level sensor, which closes the circuit you see above in the
wiring diagram which pulls in the relay you see below:
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=1279096pressure07.jpg
That level sensing part of the circuit is definitely working (and it can be
manually operated simply by pushing it in with a stick like you see in this
picture):
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=1228994flow02.jpg
What isn't shown clearly is how the well pump is controlled; whether
there really is a second sensor or whether that other relay is just the
secondary to it off the pressure switch on the booster pump.
The well pump that is 500 feet underground has its own curcuit breaker, and
it has its own relay plus it has a box to determine when it's free running
(i.e., no water in the cavity 500 feet down) and it has a timer box also.
The well pump circuit breaker is well marked in this picture and the three
right-most boxes are all for the well pump (they have nothing to do with
the booster pump).
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=7831116pressure09.jpg
The well pump is easy to test as it goes on and off all the time.
It won't go on if the tanks are full (that's what the second of the black
relays are for) and it won't go on if there is no water in the cavity 500
feet down (it will spin freely and one of those two boxes will detect the
current change and shut it down) and it seems to also have a timer (I think
that's the third box).