On 06/08/2018 16:08, FMurtz wrote:
John Rumm wrote:
On 04/08/2018 17:58, Chris Green wrote:
Chris Green wrote:

(if you did us a photo of the bits you want to replace, we might be
able
to point at something suitable)

Yes, I'll maybe do that, at least a photograph of what I want (the
disintegrating ones are first floor so a bit difficult to take
pictures).

Here you go:-

Â*Â*Â*Â* http://isbd.uk/windows/


They look very similar to the John Carr[1] windows I had in my last
place.

The profiles on those are fairly straight forward and could be cut on
a table saw.


[1] taken over by a large international window firm IIRC.

It is almost impossible to find the words to get a picture from google
but if you take the bit you want to a wood yard they will supply the
form of glazing bars that you need to make the whole window from
scratch, you can even get router bits to make your own.have included
attachment (if it works)of centre cross bars. and router forms.

Looking at the OPs picture, there are no centre bars here. They are
simple casement windows with straight profiles and rebates and a double
ovolo section bead on the inside of the DG unit. The main casement
profile is a rectangular section with a rebate on the outside and the
inside. The outside rebate allows most of the casement to close "into"
the frame, but retains a flange that supports a rubber weather seal that
closes against the face of the frame.

The internal rebate accepts the DG unit, which is then retained by the
ovolo bead which is mitred into the rebate against the glass.

There is a little bit of detailing on the outside of the frame to set
back the outer face adjacent to the DG unit and bevel it a bit to better
shed water. Its possible (in fact likely) that the the frame was not
actually made with an internal rebate at all, and the trim bits were
simply glued/nailed on after to create the rebate for the DG unit. (this
would save having to make different profiles for differing thicknesses
of DG unit)

So if you look at:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...meCasement.png

That gives you the basic outline. There may be some "cope and stick"
joinery to hold the frames together at the corners - a photo looking
onto the outside top or bottom of the casement would confirm).

(the top and bottom rails may be a little deeper that the stiles - they
appear to have a slightly larger outer rebate section)




--
Cheers,

John.

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