On 2 Aug 2018 13:46:57 GMT, Clare Snyder wrote:
a. Pick up a thread chaser & try that
Defionietly the first step - and extremely likely to work
Hi Clare,
Your advice has always been spot on!
At O'Reillys (my closest auto parts store), they only had the 14mmx1.25
spark plug chaser which is too small.
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=6043628o2sensor11.jpg
But at Autozone and Napa, they had what appears to be the right-sized
chaser labeled as an "oxygen sensor" chaser at M18x1.5 threads:
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=8522268o2sensor12.jpg
So I will try that later on today when the neighbor is home from work and
when the kid is there as I insist that he work with me and not just use me
as a slave (I want him to learn to be able to do things on his own).
(I already made him change a tire and mount and balance it with me, where I
was shocked at how utterly EASY a 14-inch tire is to mount compared to the
SUV tires!).
b. If that can'd be found, consider a junkyard exhaust manifold
Likely lots of Mitso-****ty manifolds in ther scrap heap - but
possibly with the same problem -----
O'Reilly's quoted 800 and change for a new exhaust manifold where the
problem is that the catalytic converter is integral with it, so, I think a
junkyard is iffy since a junkyard cat may be problematic, don't you think?
c. If that fails, consider a new one
Throwing cubic dollars at the problem???
The kid has to pay for all the parts (I'm paying for the tools), where he
doesn't have that kind of money - but if the car is to be repaired, it's
one of the options.
d. If that's too pricey, consider a helicoil kit (but they're pricey too)
Not if you get someone who has the tools do the job for you. Less
than $50, almost guaranteed.
Luckily, a friend whose kid can weld said he's help if needed, so I can
remove the exhaust manifold, if necessary, and we'll try tack welding on a
bung.
e. Maybe even consider drilling and then inserting a threaded bung
Basically a "timesert" - More expensive tooling
I don't weld - but from what I read, you can't really "weld" cast iron
(which I assume the exhaust manifold to be) but it could be steel for all I
know (how can I tell? It's a 2004).
The bung itself is mild steel (apparently) which has been perhaps heat
treated by a billion cycles in the engine into being hardened steel.
So what I've read is maybe we can drill out the old heat-hardened steel and
then tack weld in a new mild-steal bung or put in the timeserts/helicoils.
One problem, some say, with helicoils is that an oxygen sensor tip has to
be in the flow, so the threads can't project post the metal of the
manifold.
You haven't removed many O2 sensors - - -
Or Ford Triton spark plugs - - - - - - - - - -
I am VERY CAREFUL where I just did my bimmer, which has two upstream Bosch
lambda sensors, the back one of which you can't get your hand on, and they
came out perfectly and threaded in perfectly even though I couldn't even
get close to the rear one.
This Mitsubishi Lancer ES has the thing right in our face!
It couldn't get easier.
And yet, someone screwed it up. Sigh.
With no good ground through the repair paste, good chance the sensor
would not work - and at this point there is NO OPTION - the sensor is
FUBAR
Yup. The threads on the sensor are all chewed up. The paste is perhaps
epoxy or JB weld, but you're right. The electrical connection likely
sucked. Who on earth would do that? I can't believe it given how EASY this
sensor is compared to all the rest I did.
For example, I recently did the neighbor's Toyota upstream lambda sensor
and it was a piece of cake - it wasn't even threaded.
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=799..._sensor_01.jpg
All it had was two 12mm nuts holding it on and you just pull it out!
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=610..._sensor_02.jpg
This Mitsubishi "should" have been a piece of cake, but I'll learn by
following your advice of using the chaser first, if there are enough
threads left.
If the chaser fails, should I try to buy a M18x1.5 tap to be "more
aggressive", or should I move on to the inserts?