On Wed, 18 Jul 2018 19:52:29 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

A start cap is only in circuit during startup, it is switched out usually by centrifugal switch once a certain RPM is reached. Such a motor usually has more starting torque, but the cap is not right for efficient running.

A run cap is in the circuit all the time, and its value is important to efficiency and even running. If you take a run cap out of the circuit the motor will slow and slow and eventually stall under the load of the backpressure of the Freon. If you remove a start cap it can run forever but not start again.

Only larger systems use a start cap these days, and even 40 years ago. Got to remember this is 2018 and 40 years ago was 1978. Maybe more did back then but probably not unless it is like a 5 ton unit or bigger. (5 tons is 60,000 BTU) Is it that big ?

To find out, disconnect the cap while it is running. Use the one hand rule and insulated pliers, usually they have spade lugs and are not hard to pull off. Another way is that there will be no voltage across a start cap once it starts, but a run cap always has voltage across it. And put your meter on the 1,000 volt AC range.

But first you need the cap. Price them and see what kind of deal you can get on like a "set". Couple of 100s, 200s and 50s. Total that gives you 650. If the original even really is 1,000 that should at least started unless it has head pressure. (when the Freon is high pressure at the outlet and low pressure at the inlet)

I don't know the color comes for the wires, someone who does might but they won't work for free. You get into those things and you might have different voltages and maybe even speeds. Furnace blower motors have a gang of wires, and they are nowhere near a compressor motor.

Now, if you find it to be a run capacitor, somehow figure out how to measure current draw. Clampon ammeters are not expensive anymore, get the elcheapo Chinese kind. You have all these caps, and the optimum one will be the one that results in the lowest current drain. If with all of them in circuit the draw is lowest, go get like a 750. Then fine tune that. Keep throwing more and ore on there until the draw starts to go up. Once it gets past its peak back off. Well not peak but minimum. When you find the lowest current draw you have found the optimum cap value.

I don't now where you are but I am in the US and the last time I got motor caps it was from WW Grainger. If you have ANY company name, use it, the price changes. Five caps might be $ 20 each, that's a Cnote. If you get them cheaper it matters. Just remember they should be 440 VAC rated. Whoever put those 115 VAC caps in there should be flipping burgers.

Need to know if it is a run or start cap. If it is a start cap forget all I wrote. But I really think it is a run cap.
Actually the proper caps are 115 volt caps. Seems weird on a 220 volt
motor but if you look at a wiring diagram for a dual voltage, 110/220
volt capacitor start motor you will see why. The caps only ever see
110 volts. It turns out that the capacitance is so high because the
motor is meant for starting high torque loads, like an air compressor,
which is what it doing. Since Grainger paired this compressor and
motor I guess they knew what they were doing.
Eric