On Mon, 9 Jul 2018 02:47:12 -0000 (UTC), Wayne Boatwright
wrote:

On Sun 08 Jul 2018 06:14:03p, Jannelle Poole told us...

I just got a new fridge, I really want the ice maker to work, my
spouse says it's not necessary.which means he's not doing it we
have galvanized steel pipes and the last time I messed with the
plumbing I broke the pipe. .have 3 huge holes in my garage trying
to fix that . .it kept busting...I do have one of the bottom
loaded water coolers can I somehow use that to connect....I do see
the flojet options....it just seems that this does the same
thing...and before we get all crazy on my fridge choice it was on
clearance because of a dent, I didn't ask permission...I'm already
in trouble...but I really want the ice maker as I'm a smoothie
junkie please help https://www.homeownershub.com/img/fb
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/fc
https://www.homeownershub.com/img/fd

Adapting some contraption like that is most likely going to be a
total disappointment. Generally speaking, except for portable ice
makers that have self contained tanks, are meant to operate on
household water pressure. The solenoid valve that controls the water
flow to the ice maker is dependent on that pressure. A good example
of failure is when most reverse osmosis filters are mounted under the
sink and feed both a spout on the sink as well as a line to the ice
maker. RO filters typically produce a fairly low pressure slow flow
and that prevents the solenoid from sensing the necessary pressure to
activate.

If I were you I would abandon all of these workarounds, bite the
bullet and "T" with a shutoff vale to a main line. You should never
have a problem after that. Yes, it's bit of effort but it will pay
off and avoid disapointments.

My ice maker has been running off an R/O for 34 years with no
problems. The R/O typically puts out 20-30 PSI tho and when the tank
is completely full it is closer to full water pressure that is 30-50
from the well pump. You may need to adjust the fill time tho.