On Sun, 10 Jun 2018 08:33:21 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Larry Jaques on Sat, 09 Jun 2018
14:24:51 -0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

"easy part" is removing them. What I want to do is route the
power into a wall socket so I can have bedside lamps in there. Surface
mount and just trim the wires to fit?

Not quite. Check your wiring. You might have 12/2 w/ground, which
wouldn't be to code for 120v outlets. If you have 12/3 w/ground, you
can convert each to a 120v line because of the neutral. Either would
work well, but only one would be to code. I like that particular code
snippet because it keeps us safer. Check your gauge, too, because
some homes were built with 14ga wiring. I guess it wouldn't matter
much unless you were running high-powered equipment on them.

It is in the bedroom, I'll be plugging lights into them. Maybe
the vacuum cleaner every other Spring.

And I thought _I_ was a bad housekeeper, doing mine once a year,
whether it needs it or not. Oh, time to get more bags for the Hooving
Machine. Walmart: 6pcs Type-A bags for $7.95 delivered. (Cheaper than
going to the Wally World in town and buying them at 3/$5.)


I saw the other threads (just got back from a trip to Gunnerland) and
will add: use a boom box to trace circuits. It will tell you loud and
clear when the power to that outlet is on. g But since yours are
clearly labeled (a rare treat), you won't need one this time. I
bought one of the buzzer circuit tracers and they work poorly. I got
feedback from six adjacent wires when I tried it a couple times.
Avoid this style: https://is.gd/crkfoE Feh.

Thanks.

Jewelcome.

--
If we can ever make red tape nutritional, we can feed the world.
--Robert Schaeberle