If yuo have gotten deep enough to try and remove old wallpaper, removing or
replacing trim is 10x as easy. As for the outlets, there are box extender or
if there aren't on a stud, use box ears.



"Scout Lady" wrote in message
...

"red" wrote in message
...
Just slap some 1/4 drywall over and and be dont with it. I bought a 100
year old house and one room had three layers of wallpaper (asshats) Some
sections fell right off other wouldn't come off if a plane hit the
house.
SO
I just covered it up. Help with sound just a slight bit as well.

This sounds tempting as I have a room to redo with wallpaper that won't
come
off. This is probably a stupid question but what about the outlets, how
do
you move them forward a 1/4 inch so they line up right with the covers?
What
about the trim around the windows and doors, won't there then be a 1/4
inch
gap?


"David Combs" wrote in message
...
Rewallpapering first and part of 2nd floor; previous stuff
put up 30 or 40 years ago.

(Well, actually we're just removing the wallpaper so we
can paint the walls -- wife says she wants a change...)


This room's (hall and stairwell) paper was cheaper than
the other, and is proving damn near impossible to get
off.

We're using enzyme-stuff "DIF" brand.

We've tried steam from kettle just off stove, boiling --
no effect.

Also *very* hot water (just short of boiling) -- no
effect (ie, no incremental improvement -- although
on the other rooms, yes, it did help there).

DIF does help, but not enough -- the back side of the
paper ("backing"?) and glue stick to the wall, and the
only way we know to get it off is the scraper, difficult
inch by difficult inch, taking a *huge* amount of time.

Is far more difficult than in the other rooms, with
a better class of wallpaper having been put up
(also 30 to 40 years ago).

QUESTION: (1) are these different brands of wallpaper-
remover chemical all the same, or do some use *different*
chemicals from the others?

(2) Currently, we're using DIF brand.

Anything better?

(Especially if you've actually tried DIF, and discovered
yourself that some other brand works better!)

(3) Any hints?

(4) Does making the blades eg razor-sharp help (they're
already pretty darned sharp)?


Thanks!

David






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