I've often wondered why this sort of device does not have an internal or get
atable mains fuse as then it could be supplied with a hi quality cable and
wired in to the cooker supply assuming an Electric cooker of course.
Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"Tim Watts" wrote in message
...
On 09/06/18 09:18, Graeme wrote:

Having found a supplier of carbon filters, I need to mount our new (to
us!) cooker hood, which replaces an older non working hood. There is a 13
amp socket in the wall, used by the original hood, but, because the new
hood is a different shape, and has to be mounted higher than the old one,
the power socket will directly behind the hood.

Directly behind the 13 amp socket, which is on a ring main, is a wooden
stud, so Plan A is to replace the socket with a junction box mounted on
the stud, maintaining the ring main, and hard wire the cooker hood to the
same junction box.

Non starter - you still need a fuse (so you need a fused spur, which takes
up the same space as a socket, minus perhaps the space of the plugtop)


Plan B could be to just remount the existing socket on the stud, so that
it is recessed rather than flush, although I am not sure that would give
clearance for the cooker hood plug to be flush, too.

In this case, you could consider the fused spur option. But you still need
to get to the fuse and have a means of isolation (so a switched fused
spur).

Can you drop a cable from the ceiling down to the hood?

Or can you joint the ring, take a spur up 6" above the new hood and mount
a socket there?


Are either of these options seriously non compliant or unsafe? I don't
want to find an insurance claim, for example, failing because of
allegedly dangerous wiring, or whatever.