On Wed, 16 May 2018 21:35:47 +0100
charles wrote:

In article ,
Jim wrote:
On Wed, 16 May 2018 20:46:11 +0100
charles wrote:

In article ,
Jim wrote:
On Tue, 15 May 2018 11:17:30 +0100
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

In article ,
Lea Goldberg
m
wrote:
.so,for the first 2 years,my comet kiln worked
perfectly...then the socket burnt out,replaced it(always
ised a professional electrician)thos time,socket switches
got hardrr and harder to switch on,then the socket stopped
working again,replaced the whole unit...now its happened
again...the socket is about 20 ft via armoured cable to the
house,the kiln room isnt damp...the kilns fine,but the plug
gets a bit hot(when it worked)the electrician seems to be
baffled...'must be your kiln'...but i know nothing about
electrics so cant argue the toss!can ANYONE help...its
driving me mad....

Despite being rated at 13 amps, most sockets and plugs aren't
happy to carry that for very long periods. They are a domestic
connector and really for intermittent use at full capacity. As
with a kettle or washing machine etc. Hence things like 13 amp
water heaters normally not plugged in, but hard wired. Same
sort of thing with storage rads.

Even more so if cooling to the socket/plug is restricted in
any way.

The answer is to go for an industrial 16 amp plug and socket
- if indeed it has to have a plug/socket arrangement.


I have idly wondered why MCB spurs don't seem to be available.
3A, 10, 13A and 16A MCB spurs would be quite useful and there
would be no chance of someone putting the wrong rating of fuse
in them.


probably because there's already an MCB on the distribution
board. I don't think it's very good practice to have MCBs in
series - but someone will probably say it's fine.


Happens all the time. From a fused sub main to another CU, for
instance.


but a "FUSED" Sub-main doesn't involve an MCB


Jesus!

OK, an MCB protected sub main. Happy?