On Wednesday, May 9, 2018 at 9:08:19 AM UTC-4, Jack wrote:
On 5/6/2018 3:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, May 6, 2018 at 10:40:32 AM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
On Sunday, May 6, 2018 at 7:54:16 AM UTC-5, Dr. Deb wrote:
The case and legs, especially the legs, will get the occasional bump or scratch, but a quick rewax and you are good to go,
I vote wax, also.
Additionally (blather?):
Another option, for temporarily repairing leg/case scratches and dings, is to use a wax crayon. "Color" over the scratch/ding, with an appropriate color, rub to create heat. If you ever need to refinish, the wax is easily removed using the remover.
Several fairly good paste waxes, out there, as long as they don't contain too much oil, if any, or if they don't contain silicone. I often use Pate' Dugay.... kinna expensive, in various colors, but a can lasts a long long time. It doesn't take much to wax a piece, so a can will last very long time. Might not be worth the expense, if not used often enough. I do part-time upholstery; I fairly often wax/polish the woodwork of a piece, with Pate' Dugay, before the reupholstering.
I used Tre-Wax on raw ER cedar wood display cabinet/open shelf unit, 35-40 yrs ago. reapplied 15-20 yrs ago. Still nice and smooth, looks nice, easy to dust, no color fading (that I'm aware of).
Sonny
"no color fading (that I'm aware of)"
I believe it was Jack that made the same claim about a something he
made/bought/not_sure many years ago. When somebody pushed back, he managed
to find a spot that was hidden from the light all those years. He came back
and humbly expressed his amazement at how much it had actually faded. Living
with a piece day in and day out without something "new" to compare it to,
you'll never notice the slow change.
Twas I and it was a walnut piece I'd made about 35+ years ago, and
finished with spray lacquer, no stain.
My self, since the top is cement, I would finish the rest with anything
but wax. I was never a fan of just wax, prefer shellac, lacquer,
varnish, poly, oil. In this case I probably would use several coats of
shellac since water/alcohol contact is unlikely. If I made it, I
probably would have considered a danish oil stain, particularly if you
want oak to be stained dark as in walnut. Shellac is my favorite though,
easy to spray or apply with a rag and always looks great on hardwood.
I've never done a cement top though. What would you seal that with?
Nothing? Thompsons? I dunno.
--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
http://jbstein.com
I somewhat agree with You Jack about Slellac finish I restore a lot of antiques and it's a joy to when I identify their finish is shellac
this stuff really ages well and is easily brought back to life when You are not afraid to renew the look away from shabby sheik.
I an very interested in a product I have not Yet Tried = "Shellac Flat" Which dulls shellac This would be handy on some older worn shellac finishes requiring less gloss.
SHELLAC FLAT
#7080 /SHELLAC FLAT- Flattening Agent for liquid €“ $17.95 €“ 16 OZ. BOTTLE
Homestead Finishing Products
P O Box 360275 Strongsville OH 44136-0005 Tel # 216-631-5309
Another Great Product I like is Waterlox Tung oil Varnish
https://www.waterlox.com/
I thin this stuff with Naptha water consistency and hand rub up to 20 coats.
I daily yep up to 20 days worth wet sanding 1000 grit between make sure its very dry and free from moisture between wet Sanding and rubs I make a pad like You would for French Polish for this. The finish dries Hard and is very durable like a Samurai Sword when completely cured after a couple of weeks. All good things take time. I have refinished many Antiques and Acoustic Guitars with this process.
I also love Working with Behlen Stringed Instrument nitrocelluloce Laquer.
https://www.shellac.net/instrument_lacquer_howto.html
on a newer project or replacement part to a laquer finished piece.
I will post a new Question about shellac flat if someone Has used it.
rick B.