On Mon, 07 May 2018 21:47:02 +0100, wrote:

On Monday, May 7, 2018 at 3:43:32 PM UTC-4, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Mon, 07 May 2018 20:33:27 +0100, rbowman wrote:

On 05/07/2018 01:07 PM, wrote:
On Monday, May 7, 2018 at 2:03:55 PM UTC-4, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Mon, 07 May 2018 18:42:48 +0100, Bob F wrote:

On 5/7/2018 10:24 AM, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Mon, 07 May 2018 16:37:05 +0100, Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Monday, May 7, 2018 at 9:08:44 AM UTC-5, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife wrote:
On Mon, 07 May 2018 15:05:56 +0100, wrote:

On Monday, May 7, 2018 at 9:44:59 AM UTC-4, Jimmy Wilkinson Knife
wrote:
On Mon, 07 May 2018 14:36:24 +0100, KenK wrote:

Has anyone ever compared power usage between a swamp cooler and
a small
window A/C? I suspect the A/C uses a bit more power. or is it
significantly
more? It would be a lot more convenient than a cooler. There
seem to be a
lot of water pump, fan belt, pad water distribution and other
problems with
a cooler despite decades of using one.

Thoughts?

It wouldn't matter to me which was more efficient. A swamp cooler
is a pretend AC unit. It evaporates water, therefore humidifying the
room. Also a real AC unit can run in reverse and serve as a heat
pump for winter.

You must have different "real AC units". Mine won't run in
reverse. It's pretty much exactly like this:

https://www.goodmanmfg.com/resources/heating-cooling-101/how-central-ac-systems-work

Except it and the supply air ducts are located in the basement of
my single-story house.

Why on earth could an AC unit not run backwards? You just reverse
the pump. Every one I've seen in the UK (commercial and home) has
been able to do this. The controller usually has settings for
heating, cooling, or automatic. On automatic you can simply set a
range (say 18 - 22C) and if it goes over, it cools, if it goes under,
it heats.
--


You don't run it backwards. We have what are called,"Heat Pumps". The
compressor always spins in the same direction but there is something
called a "Reversing Valve" which reverses to flow of refrigerant
through the system thus changing the direction of the heat transfer. I
like a heat pump combined with a gas furnace because the electric
strip heaters for auxiliary heat can be expensive to run. If it gets
cold enough that you need auxiliary heat, I'd want a gas furnace. In
the real world, I would actually prefer a high-efficiency air
conditioner combined with a gas furnace and avoid the complexity and
expense of a heat pump. One of the things I did for a living was
installation and service of HVAC systems so I know a little bit about
them. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle AC Monster

Why bother with the gas at all? Just have enough heat pumps to pump
heat in winter and summer.


Heat pumps do not always heat enough. As the outside temp drops, they
become less and less efficient. Most heat pumps use electric strip
heaters when outside temps get too low.

Then you need more heat pumps. I've been told they tend to be 400% efficient even in winter. Maybe not if you live somewhere like Alaska where it's way below zero. Do you guys say "way below thirty two"?

We say "way below freezing".

Average January nighttime low where I live is -7.8 C. Record
low is -25.0 C. We can usually count on at least three nights
that are below 18 C.

Average July daytime high is 28.4 C. Record daytime high is
35 C.

When we say 'way below zero' it's way below -18 C.

Why on earth would you still use an antiquated measurement system that doesn't have a zero in a sensible place? C is easy - 0 is freezing 100 is boiling. Of water, the most important thing on the planet.

Any such system is arbitrary and it makes no sense to complain
about its arbitrariness.

Cindy Hamilton

No, it's easier to use with sensible numbers. I was brought up on F. It was ok for room temperature, I knew 70F was room temperature and could work from that. But having a 0 at freezing point makes it so much easier to judge outside temperatures.

--
Is a "speed hump" when you have to get it done before your wife comes home?