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Harry Bloomfield[_3_] Harry Bloomfield[_3_] is offline
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Default 58w utility room tube

ARW wrote :

Not so long ago I guided someone how to change a fluorescent tube to LED in a
Mazda Netaline. The T8's would not strike which I suspect was due to a lack
of mercury and no ballast.

I assume that you know the Netaline, if not enjoy this link.

http://www.streetlightonline.co.uk/N...hotographs.htm

Now that one really does need a 360 deg beam.

Cheers


The original illumination for the room, was just a completely
inadequate lamp-holder with a 100w bulb. I swapped that back in around
1985 for one one of those circular fluorescent fittings, which had been
pulled out of the kitchen. When that failed after a year or two's
additional use, I replaced it with the 58w 5' fitting, then later made
it occupation switched.

The end wall of the utility, had what used to be a coal store at the
other side of it, with its own separate door. As we had never used
coal, it didn't really serve any useful purpose, too deep and narrow.

I decided the best use it could be put to was as an extra pantry. I cut
a doorway (no door) through from the utility, removed and bricked up
its existing door and added a series of shelves at both sides of what
had been the two ends of the space. You walk in from the utility, then
there are floor to ceiling shelves to both your left and right.

I then added 6x washing lines running the full length of the utility
and extending into the new pantry, added a fan and a dehumidifier, to
turn the whole into a drying room. The lines cross the 5' fitting at
right angles. The utility has a sink, worktop, dishwasher and washer
drier in it at one side, then an upright freezer at the other. It can
become very congested with lots of washing being dried. I originally
used ordinary washing line, run between a series of substantial hooks
screwed into wall mounted blocks, which kept snapping, then shock cord.
What ever I used it broke or stretched, the ceiling height in there is
low, so they needed to be tight to prevent droop when loaded. A few
years ago, I changed it for plastic covered stainless rope - no more
breakages or drooping lines.

The drier is no longer used, the lines can take a much larger load, get
things mostly dry over night and it is much cheaper to run the fan and
dehumidifier than the drier. The fan and dehumidifier are essential to
dry the washing and keep the humidity in the room down to low values.
The dehumidifier's condensate is plumbed down into a drain.

Getting back to the lighting, it needed to be at right angles to the
lines and offering a wide spread of light, to get through the drying
clothes when the lines are loaded up.