On Wednesday, 28 March 2018 14:25:50 UTC+1, Sam wrote:

I hope you jest. But knowing you...

which you don't

we've seen enough of your statements about electronics to know where you're at with that.

So yuo must notice that I post evidence that I am right so far you've shown nothing regarding how to work out what fuse to put in a plug.
If you had any sense yuo could find out via google.

https://www.electricalsafetyfirst.or...ugs-and-fuses/

Quotes
The fuse in a plug is a safety device designed to protect the lead rather than the appliance.

Plugs for appliances rated up to about 700 watts should have a 3-amp fuse (coloured red).

Plugs for appliances rated between about 700 watts and 3000 watts (the maximum rating of a wall socket) should be fitted with a 13-amp fuse (coloured brown).



As I said before - you are too simplistic!

They figures you give are suggestions/recommendations aimed at the
public, there isn't anything wrong fitting a fuse of a lower rating than
the cable and the 700w/3000w suggestion is only a "rule of thumb". These
sites shows you the possible pitfalls of it:

https://www.pat-testing-training.net...se-ratings.php

and

https://www.rospa.com/home-safety/uk...hoosing-fuses/

Also if it were illegal to use other fuse ratings - as you imply - why
is it possible to purchase fuses as shown he

https://www.esr.co.uk/electronics/fuses-household.htm

I also came across this from a forum:

" The problem is that of "surge" or "startup" currents. These often blow
a 3A fuse.

This is why Table 2 of BS1363-1 effectively states that for 0.5 sq mm,
5A fuse may be used if this is a problem, and 13A for 0.75 sq mm and
above (with a length limit for 0.75 if it's used for certain appliance
ratings)."

As for current flow.

The appliance takes/allows the current to flow due to its
resistance/impedance and the source forces/feeds the current to the
appliance. Isn't this is what is implied by EMF of a source, ie the
Electro Motive Force?

Sam

you're talking to a fool.