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PeterC PeterC is offline
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Default Fuse calculation

On Mon, 19 Mar 2018 12:31:42 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Monday, 19 March 2018 17:59:10 UTC, Sam wrote:
On 19/03/2018 16:53, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
whisky-dave wrote:

Which is the best fuse to use (3A, 5A or 13A) with a 1.15kW electric
fire at a potential difference of 240v

If you're talking a plug fuse, the load is irrelevant. As it is to protect
the flex etc. In other words, a table light with a 20 watt bulb would be
fine with a 13 amp fuse if the cable was rated at 13 amps.


Won't all fuses less than 13a protect the cable then!


No, for 4 reasons.

1. Some appliances have old thin cables that come nowhere near being protected by a 10A fuse.
2. Some old appliances need low current mains fuses to give them basic safety protection.
3. Some new appliances have noncompliant CCS cables.
3. Some 13A fuses are in reality 13A or greater. This applies both to old pre-ASTM and new counterfeit fuses.

NT


With the v. few items with old, thin flex I have fuses of 1, 2, 3, 5, 7, 10
& 13A semi-sorted in 3 boxen. I suppose, with a bit of modding, I could also
look at sub-1A fuses (fast, delay, slow), but nowadays they're pretty well
redundant.
We had an oven at work that drew about 15 - 16A peak but with odd solenoids
banging in at times. The v. old 13A fuse went and the replacements would
last only days - not good in military testing.
Had to hard-wire it to a 20A fused breaker in the end.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway