DIYbanter - View Single Post - Need recommendations for pneumatic construction stapler

Leon[_7_]

On 3/10/2018 10:40 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 10 Mar 2018 09:19:01 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 3/9/2018 9:48 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 9 Mar 2018 19:20:47 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 3/9/2018 6:28 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 9 Mar 2018 08:48:11 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 3/8/2018 9:10 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 8 Mar 2018 20:56:11 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

On 3/8/2018 7:52 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 7 Mar 2018 22:20:32 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

On 3/7/2018 8:27 PM, Ignoramus20263 wrote:
I do many things, but one of them is I build wooden crates for
machinery. I would like to buy a good "construction stapler" that
shoots 7/16" wide staples, to attach OSB to 2x4s.

Would anyone recommend a stapler that is well made. I heard many
comments that these staplers cheapened out and simply do not last.

Thanks a ;lot

i
Â* I like the Porter-Cable nail guns I have , also like my H-F framing
nailer - but it's heavy . I don't recall the brand of staplers we used
in the cabinet shops , but they all seemed pretty much the same . As Dan
said , sometimes suppliers will give you guns , but I doubt you'll be
using the kind of volume they want for that .
Not only are the HF framing nailers heavy but they're huge (at least
mine is). It's really hard to maneuver it around and impossible to
get into many places. I used it once, then went out and bought a
Hitachi.

My PC brad, finish, and narrow crown staplers work fine, though.

Â* I originally bought that nailer to build a fence . That job paid for
it , the rest is gravy - That nail gun has pretty much built this house
we're living in . Framing , sheathing , roof decking , the floor , all
nailed with that gun . I found very few situations that I couldn't use it .

A framing nailer to build a fence?

Yes! You do have to shoot nails to attach 2x4 to 4x4 posts.

What would you be thinking?

Screws/lags for rails to posts. Ringshank siding/fencing nails for
slats to rails.

I at one time used deck screws to attach rails to the posts but that was
when I was using a hammer for everything. A friend and I probably
removed and build 20 fences way back when and his framing nailer cut the
work time by 1/2 to 2/3's. This was 3 rail fences Plus a rot board at
the bottom. I will never build another fence with out a rot board. It
is huge time saver and keeps every thing level, providing the rot board
is level. One of us could put 6 nails into a picket almost as fast as
the other one of us could position the next picket and insure it was
plum. Neither of us were ever really waiting on the other to complete
our task.

What's a "rot board"? Just a spacer to keep the picket off the
ground?

Pretty much, I use a 5/4 treated deck board. If it rots it is much
easier and less expensive to replace than 16+ pickets.

I place the rot board on the ground, level, and attach to the front face
of the post. Then the bottom 2x4 rail directly behind between the posts
and 2.5" above the rot board. The rail's bottom is 1" below the top of
the rot board. I put a nail or two through the face of the rot board
into the bottom 2x4 rail to keep them from separating should one want to
bow.
Then a mid 2x4 rail between the posts and a top 2x4 rail on top of the
posts. Pickets stand on the top edge of the rot board.

OK, I was thinking that the "rot board" was just for spacing and
didn't remain part of the fence. I've never seen a fence constructed
as you describe. Makes sense, though. End grain doesn't touch
anything wet. I generally just left the pickets a couple of inches
above the ground (so I could get a weed whacker under them).

Down here humidity is high. It is normal to walk into the yard first
thing in the morning and your feet get wet. Even during a dry month.
The bottoms of the pockets are always against the wet grass every
morning. That is the problem.
The added benefit of this style is that the fence is about 10% taller
for more privacy.
Now the pickets naturally will get wet with a sprinkler or rain but the
bottoms are high enough off the ground that they will quickly dry and
they will not be exposed to wet grass every morning.

See the link of a proposal for a customer. I tapered the top of the end
of the fence to match the height of an existing shorter fence that it
met up with.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/