Thread: Poplar
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DerbyDad03 DerbyDad03 is offline
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Default Poplar

On Friday, February 23, 2018 at 11:42:24 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
On Friday, February 23, 2018 at 7:52:27 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, February 23, 2018 at 7:43:52 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
More expensive than I expected.


What are you using it for?

Some lumber yards sell finger jointed poplar which is much cheaper, but still
poplar, so it takes paint very well. The 1 x 6's I recently bought were truly
finger jointed (finger joints seen on the edges, cross-wise glue joints on the
face. The 1 x 8's were edge glued boards, made up of 1" - 2" strips, i.e.
glue joints running the length of the boards. It was all classified as finger
jointed in their system, as opposed to "clear poplar".

I found that when gluing up some panels with the 1 x 8's, my glue joints
were stronger than the factory glue joints.


I'll definitely remember that next time. If I had more lead time, I would
have made a trip to the lumber mill and bought it rough. I am making a frame
for a painting. The artist wants to paint it too.


Just to be clear...

Finger jointed (or edge glued) poplar is not rough. It's S4S just like the
clear Poplar. At least stuff I can get is. I just used some for the face
frames and doors of 2 base cabinets.

One caution: Be aware of where the glue joints are. I ripped a piece of
the edge glued poplar down for a door style. I then cut the grove for the
panel. After I assembled the door I realize that the groove ended right
at a glue joint so there was no longer any support under it. The glue
joint split open. I injected some glue in the split and used some thin
strips of - wait for it - Poplar as "horizontal spring clamps" while the
glue dried. If you zoom on the outlined area, you can sort of tell where
I glued the glue joint back together.

https://i.imgur.com/6X3Q1Fw.jpg?1