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DerbyDad03 DerbyDad03 is offline
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Default Speaking Of Trim Work...How To Remove?

On Thursday, February 22, 2018 at 4:38:55 PM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Thu, 22 Feb 2018 12:43:56 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

Explain to me why your suggestion is better/easier/faster than mine.

Yours:

1 - Make a cutting jig for whatever tool I choose to cut the existing trim
2 - Protect the floor
3 - Make precise angle cut on the existing baseboard
4 - Pry off the top of the base board
5 - Rip the new 12' length of base board at the same angle
6 - Glue it to the old
7 - Nail the top part of the trim
8 - Make sure that no seam is evident that the paint won't hide, deal with it if there is. (Plaster
walls that are far from flat or plumb)

Mine:

1 - Use the curved blade on my MF tool and rip the baseboard in half, not careing how precise
the cut is
2 - Remove the top half the trim
3 - Pry back the bottom half to expose the nails
4 - Cut the nails with my MF tool
5 - Remove the bottom half of the trim
6 - Slip a new piece of trim into the gap
7 - Nail it top and bottom

I can't think of one reason why I would use your method over mine. Please explain.



Less chance of damaging the floor or wall, for starters. You don't
say how tight the luian is to the trim. If it is tifht to the trim and
the trim is tight to the wall, noving the bottom of the trim without
affecting either wall or floor (or both) COULD be problematic.


If you go back and read my OP, I said that I've already removed a 3
foot section by cutting the nails. All I was asking for was an easier
way to get to the nails. Implication: I can get to the nails which
indicates that there is room to move the trim away from the wall.


Also, depending on the nails you MAY go through several MF blades,
which frommyexperience are not particularly a)cheap, and b) durable.

If it doesn't work "according to plan" you have a mess on your hands.
My way you are pretty much guaranteed no surprises and a neet,
consistent result when you are finished.


Unless there is a seam at the glue joint that needs to be filled, sanded,
etc. I'd be at the mercy of the cut, the wall, and other factors as to
whether that 12' glue joint is neat and consistent. No thanks.



It's your job, and your choice, but you asked for suggestions how to
do the job better.


No, I asked for suggestions how to the job *easier*. You gotta admit, your
way sure isn't easier.


I've told you how "I" would do it.

Now you know why.
Your choice

If I screw up a job I have my wife to answer to - so I try to do
things as well as possible - with as little chance of a screw-up as
possible.


That's where you and I differ - twice.

1 - If I screw it up, "SWMBO" truly becomes the term of endearment it is
meant to be. I'll tell her I screwed up and she'll say "**** Happens. Think
you can fix it?" We don't answer to each other, we talk to each other.

2 - I don't think that the requirement for 2 precise cuts and a 12' glue
joint at floor level next to an uneven plaster wall comes with "as little
chance of a screw-up as possible". I'm much more confident that an R&R is
easier, quicker and safer.