On 2/22/18 2:43 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, February 22, 2018 at 11:28:44 AM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Thu, 22 Feb 2018 04:12:12 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Thursday, February 22, 2018 at 1:06:09 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/22/18 12:01 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, February 22, 2018 at 12:31:30 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/21/18 11:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, February 22, 2018 at 12:14:00 AM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 21 Feb 2018 22:49:56 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 2/21/18 10:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, February 21, 2018 at 11:24:52 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 2/21/18 9:41 PM, Leon wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
Well, it is made of wood so...

I need to remove about 12' of 3 1/4" shoe base moulding. (It's pretty beat
up and I don't feel like stripping/filling it.) The problem is that the
bottom 1/4"+ is behind the luan/linoleum so it has to come up then out.

I did a 3' section by cutting the nails with my multi-function tool but I'm
wondering if there is an easier way. Getting to the bottom nails was more
poke-and-hope than I'd like. I guess I could rip the shoe base in half
(with the MF tool) to make it easier to get to the bottom nails.

Obviously, I can get this done, but I'm open to suggestions from the
wisdom of the wRec. This might be fun. ;-)



If you know where the nails are, use a nail set and drive them through.


+1


-1

Just "knowing" where they are doesn't help. I know they're lower than the
finish floor.


Just tear it out per my suggestion of the pry bar.
It's not rocket surgery.


There is another simple way to do it, after you do a bit of more
difficult work. Make a jig to hold your 4" angle grinder at a shallow
angle to cut the base just proud of the vinyl flooring, with the
cut-off wheel pointing just slightly down. It will make a bit of
wood-smoke, but it will leave a nice smooth surface to set your nrw
molding on. Perhaps one of the new mini circular saw blades will fit
on the grinder to make coarser sawdust and less smoke - - -

...and then rip the shoe base since it needs to be the same height as the shoe
base it's going to butt up to further along the wall...shoe base that is not going
to be removed. I think I'll pass on that idea.


I don't know what you mean by "shoe base," but Clare has a good idea,
there.

Shoe base, as far as I tought, is one of many types of baseboard. Maybe
I'm using the wrong term. Like I said it's late. ;-) (Bedtime after this.)

This is what I am dealing with:

https://i.imgur.com/VkP9gGt.jpg


If you're replacing 3-1/2" baseboard with 3-1/2" baseboard, then you
could rip the existing base flush with the new finished flooring and
install new base on top.

Easier/safer to rip the existing "baseboard" on the wall, cut the bottom
nails and slip in a new piece. It'll line up evenly with the existing
baseboard that won't be removed.

Like I said, I'll get it out and probably in less than an hour. Certainly in
less time than cutting the existing flush and ripping the new.


That's fine if you're ok with baseboard that looks too short. :-p
But hey, people gave up caring about scale and perspective long ago, so
that's cool.

Unless I want to R&R all of the baseboard in the kitchen and living room to raise
it that 1/4"+, replacing just the section where we're painting is my only option.

That wall continues into the living room and the baseboard needs to match the height of
the living room baseboard where they butt up. The living room baseboard essentially
circles all the way around the living room (skipping openings, of course) and comes back
into the kitchen and then continues around the kitchen.

If one of your clients asked you to replace a 12' section of baseboard in the kitchen, would
you suggest that they R&R all of the base board on an entire floor just to get that 1/4" back?


Do you have a table saw?
Make it pay the rent for the space it occupies. 12 feet should take
less than 3 minutes of cutting and 2 minutes of setup.
THen it will look good when you are done.
If you cut the old board at a consistent angle as I suggested, adjust
the saw to match and glue the new piece to the old part left behind
the flooring and single nail the trim to the wall.

Explain to me why your suggestion is better/easier/faster than mine.

Yours:

1 - Make a cutting jig for whatever tool I choose to cut the existing trim
2 - Protect the floor
3 - Make precise angle cut on the existing baseboard
4 - Pry off the top of the base board
5 - Rip the new 12' length of base board at the same angle
6 - Glue it to the old
7 - Nail the top part of the trim
8 - Make sure that no seam is evident that the paint won't hide, deal with it if there is. (Plaster
walls that are far from flat or plumb)

Mine:

1 - Use the curved blade on my MF tool and rip the baseboard in half, not careing how precise
the cut is
2 - Remove the top half the trim
3 - Pry back the bottom half to expose the nails
4 - Cut the nails with my MF tool
5 - Remove the bottom half of the trim
6 - Slip a new piece of trim into the gap
7 - Nail it top and bottom

I can't think of one reason why I would use your method over mine. Please explain.


If you use my pry-bar method you don't have to cut the trim in half and
it'll tear the trim away from the nails, leaving manageable leftovers to
remove. And it's pretty fast.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com