On Monday, January 29, 2018 at 3:30:46 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/29/18 2:02 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Monday, January 29, 2018 at 2:44:21 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/29/18 1:11 PM, wrote:
This question is a bit like one of my previous clients I ran
into over the weekend. "Hey Robert... I have an office in my
wife's dental practice and I want the ceilings torn off, I
*think* they are acoustic tile over sheetrock, but it could be
tile over plywood. Also, I need the walls stripped off and the
cabinets removed so I can upgrade the walls to new hold new free
hanging cabinets. Oh yeah, and a couple three new plugs. How
much will that cost?"

Let your mind wonder.

So, since finishing/refinishing is certainly part of what I do,
I would ask this: Clear coat or paint? (Why hasn't that been
asked?) What shape is the door in? Need a lot of prep? Need to
be puttied, have surface work done? Does it have panels? How
many? Does it have glass in it? Can the glass come out easily
or will it have to be taped off?


Clear coat. If it was paint, I wouldn't be here, asking. :-)

Brand new door- perfect condition. Some holes need puttied-- not
sure why installer didn't do that. Lots of glass panels, including
glass sidelights. Probably taped off.


What kind of finish will the door owner tolerate? The smell of
oil based products will linger in the house for days. Some
people have now decided that even latex paint fumes can bring on
delirium. With that in mind, the $1200 guy may have decided to
take the door off and take it to his shop for finishing to get
that "factory" finish. If so, like me he probably puts a plywood
barrier across the door hole while the actual door is off site.
Some of my clients have loved the convenience of having me pick
up the door, block the entry and be gone in 30 minutes, then
return in a week with a finished door that I put back up and
install the hardware and it's finished.

So, what kind of finish, how much prep, what style door, and on
or off site finish, and how will it be applied?

Robert


I suppose I could take the door with me, but I'd still have the
frame and sidelights/trim to finish. The whole thing is newly
installed and raw mahogany.


Is installing a raw wooden door a standard practice?


I don't know. There has to be some logical reason. All I can think of
is so all the trim-out can be finished at the same time.
However, I also think it's better to put a finish on all the surfaces,
including bottom. That way when it shrinks, there's still protection.
I think it would be optimal to do all finishing in shop on all wood
surfaces, up until last coat. Then do last coat after installation.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

I'm trying to think of a "logical" reason why they would install an entirely new wood door system without finishing first. Having trouble...

JP